Outdoor Enclosures Part 5 - Long Necked Turtles

Outdoor Enclosures - Part 5

Long Necked Turtles

Outdoor ponds provide the turtle with access to natural sunlight and natural foods that wander into the enclosure.  Here they exhibit a more natural behaviour and this will give the keeper a better understanding of their habits.  An outdoor enclosure also gives the turtle more space than can generally be provided in an indoor enclosure.  All Chelodina turtles may be housed outdoors all year round if they occur naturally in your region.  For those keepers in the southern part of Australia, northern Chelodina turtles may be kept outdoors over summer and should be moved indoors to a warmer enclosure over the winter.

The old fashioned method of tethering turtles by tying wire or string through a hole drilled in the marginal scutes of the turtle’s shell and anchoring the other end is a cruel, old-fashioned practice.  Letting the turtle wander the back yard is also not encouraged.  The fact of the matter is that turtles require water to live in and this is essential for their survival.  Drilling holes is also potentially harmful to the turtle since it leaves an open wound encouraging infection.  Turtles may also become entangled in the string they are tethered by and cannot retreat when confronted by dogs or other predators.

Certainly the strongest type of pond, and most permanent, is the concrete pond.  These can be built to any size or shape and are easily repaired with a little know-how.  The concrete should be waterproofed with a waterproof cement additive (eg Breakwater, Silasec) otherwise the water will seep through the concrete.  Care must be made to ensure the surface is smooth and there are no sharp protrusions as concrete can quickly damage the turtles’ plastron.  Avoid pressing coarse sand or gravel into wet concrete to give it a natural look since the gravel will act as an abrasive on the plastron and feet.  Pre-made fiberglass or plastic ponds come in a range of sizes, shapes and prices.  Although they can be expensive, the aesthetic appeal tends to outweigh the cost.  The pebble finish gives the pond a natural appearance, but in son instances they have been known to cause abrasion to the plastron.

A plastic lined pond may be cheaply constructed by digging the required shaped hole into the ground, placing a layer of sand over the entire surface, then covering the e sand with a tough flexible plastic membrane.  The edges of the plastic can be held down by large rocks, and this also improves the general appearance.  Ensure the plastic membrane is strong, otherwise the turtle’s claws may puncture the lining.  As small rigid plastic children’s pool (see bottom photo on page 11) also makes a good inground pond.  They are a cheap alternative that can be stacked away when not in use, easy to move around when relocating and discarded after several years of use if necessary.  The author has used these for raising juveniles, and for housing small turtles.

Ponds should be a minimum of 500mm deep and as large as possible.  The pond should be constructed in such a way the turtle can easily get out of the water and bask on the surround land area, a plank may be beneficial for the turtle to exit the water.  The turtles should have access to both sunlight and shade.

Walls surrounding the inground pond are typically made from corrugated iron, tin, cement sheet, smooth walled brick, wire netting with w wire mesh roof (see photos page 11 & 21).  This prevents your turtle from escaping, but also keeps unwanted predatory animals out.  The walls should be buried into the ground to stop any animals from digging out, or rodents digging in.  The walls should be of sufficient height to stop anything from climbing out, unless a roof is provided.  Ensure that rocks, logs, branches, grasses and small shrubs are not used as a ladder to escape over the walls, as Chelodinas are unbelievable climbers despite their cumbersome appearance.

Resource
Keeping Long-Necked Turtles by Darren Green

Outdoor Enclosures Part 4 - Western Bluetongues

Outdoor Enclosures - Part 4

Western Bluetongues

Outdoor enclosures can have several advantages over indoor enclosures: Blue-tongues ten to exhibit more natural behaviour, there is no need to provide artificial heat or light and there is generally more space and scope for a naturalistic enclosure layout.  Apparently ‘tame’ Blue-tongues that have been kept indoors for some time can behave quite differently when initially placed outdoors, resorting to hissing and threat displays when approached, though this behaviour usually does not persist.  UV-light, along with other factors such as the different surrounds and presence of other individuals, very probably cause this response and, deprived of these stimuli, Blue-tongues tend to become passive.

The simplest and cheapest method of constructing an outdoor enclosure for Blue-tongues is to use the tin surround of an above ground swimming pool.  Surrounds with heights of 2ft or 2ft 6in (600-750mm) are preferable to 3 or 4 ft high surrounds because their extra height can create too much shade.  The area enclosed by these pool surrounds is sufficient to house 3-6 adult Blue-tongues.  Of course the length of tin is easily shortened so as to create an enclosure for housing a smaller number of Blue-tongues if desired.  You should sink the tin surround some 100mm into the ground.  A shallow trench around the inner edge of the surround, filled with large stones and then soil provides a barrier for Blue-tongues that attempt to dig under.  Blue-tongues do not have a strong digging or burrowing habit and are much more inclined to go ‘over’ that ‘under’.  You need to therefore ensure that the height of the surround is at least 500mm above ground level; this will ensure that Blue-tongues cannot climb over, provided of course that you do no then place objects close to the surround which might assist their attempts!  Avoid placing branches, rocks or other items which might assist escape attempts, close to or against the tin surround.  Alternatively, a tin or wooden overhang 150-200mm in width can be constructed around the top of the surround.  Tin pool surrounds have a vertical nut-bolt join and, as a precaution, the head of the bold should be on the inside of the surround, to ensure that leverage is minimal for would-be climbers.

You should attempt to position the enclosure in an area that receives sunlight for much or all of the day.  Placing the surround in an area receiving little or no sun, or in an area that is continually damp, must be avoided.  If you have poorly drained soils (eg heavy clay soils) then you will need to consider ways of improving the drainage of the soil or else replace it.  Ground covers such as grass tussocks, leaf litter and logs are necessary to allow lizards to retreat from unsuitable weather.  It is important during wet weather that there are dry retreats in the enclosure.  Creating a mound of soil with plastic (PVC) or clay pipes running into or through it, provides excellent dry retreats for Blue-tongues.  A slightly elevated and shaded wooden or tin box with a narrow entrance and removable lid (for easy access) is another way of creating a dry retreat.  As for indoor enclosures it is necessary to provide a water bowl.  Again, it need only be small and shallow (300mm diameter) and placed in a part of the enclosure that receives the most shade.  Large heavy ceramic water bowls with a low rim are ideal and cannot be over-turned by Blue-tongues.  If the blow is made of a lighter material, it is wise to sink part of or all of it into the ground to prevent it being over-turned.  While large in-ground ponds may enhance the appearance of the enclosure, as well as provide plenty of water, they can present real danger to Blue-tongues trough drowning unless they are very carefully constructed (ie have gently sloping, non-slippery sides).

If you live in an area where predatory birds, cats or dogs occur you will need to consider providing some sort of overhead protection such as netting, which does not unduly shade the enclosure.  Fine, small gauge nylon netting is suitable for the job and can be suspended by metal or wooden posts in the centre of the enclosure to prevent sagging.  Shade cloth should not be used for this purpose as it substantially reduces light levels.  However it is good for creating shade in just part of an enclosure that tends to be exposed to all-day sun.  Providing plenty of ground cover for your Blue-tongues affords them further protection and helps to give them a sense of security.

One alternative to tin pool surrounds is a wire aviary-type enclosure.  Wire should not extend to the ground as Blue-tongues can develop badly rubbed snouts as a result of constant pacing along the perimeter.  Aviaries may be purchased from pet shops, and used with little or no modifications to the design.  Most tend to have a small floor area relative to their height and are best adapted for housing Blue-tongues by lying the enclosure on its side.  There are many other possible designs.  A good idea would be to view some outdoor enclosures at zoos, wildlife parks or those of private keepers before committing yourself to a particular design.

Resource
Keeping Blue-Tongue Lizards by Grant Turner

Outdoor Enclosures Part Three Bobtails

Outdoor Enclosures - Part 3

Bobtails

Shingleback Lizards are best kept outdoors where they have access to natural sunlight and natural foods that wander into the enclosure and can generally be provided with more space than can be provided in an indoor enclosure.  In outdoor enclosures Shinglebacks tend to exhibit a more natural behaviour and give the keeper a better understanding of their habits.

Outdoor enclosure may be constructed from almost any building material providing they are escape proof.  Walls are typically made from tin, cement sheet or smooth walled brick (harder to climb) with a wire mesh on top to keep unwanted animals out and the lizards in. Wire netting over the enclosure is certainly advisable in areas where predation (eg birds of prey, cats) is likely to occur.  Avoid using wire walls as the lizard may become entangled or the rough galvanized coating may damage the lizard as it rubs against it.  The walls should be buried into the ground to stop any lizards from digging out or rodents from digging in.  The walls should be of sufficient height to stop anything from climbing out (at least as high as the lizards are long).  Ensure that rocks, logs, branches, grasses and small shrubs are not used as a ladder to escape over the walls as many Shinglebacks can be good climbers, despite their somewhat stumpy appearance and short legs.  The area should also be well drained to ensure flooding does not occur if it should rain.

Shinglebacks are not good swimmers and will drown if they cannot easily get out of a water bowl or pond.  It is therefore essential to provide a shallow water dish or a pond with gently sloping sides.  Shinglebacks should always have access to natural sunlight, shade and a place to retreat at night or brumate over winter such as a cave, tree hollow or lizard hut.  Caves, hollows or huts should have enough insulation to keep frosts off the animal should they occur, otherwise hay, leaf litter, woodchips or wood shavings may be placed into the enclosure for the lizard to bury itself under.

Various plant species are suitable for the Shinglebacks outdoor enclosure.  Be sure that the plants selected for your enclosure is not toxic as Shinglebacks are omnivorous and may try to eat them.  A plant nursery attendant may assist you with your choice, with native plants being first choice.  Generally some good terrestrial plants suited to outdoor enclosures are low, cushion or clump forming ground-covers or rockery plants.  Other plants such as grasses may be used to provide shelter or simply for decorative appeal.  These ground covers, clumps and grasses are great cover for Shinglebacks and many will prefer to use these in place of caves, tree hollows or huts.  Avoid broad leafed plants where possible as these may excessively shade wet areas and increase humidity.  An area with a dense pile of eucalyptus leaves may also be used as cover.

Outdoor enclosures are ideally suited to areas within the Shinglebacks natural geographic area (including the Perth metro region).  Alternatively, they may also be kept outdoors in the less humid areas of Australia, however a compromise can be reached by allowing them outside for December to February (or dry season in the northern states).  Keeping these lizards in coastal or areas with high humidity will increase the risk of respiratory infection.  If you live in a coastal or an area of high humidity then keeping these lizards indoors may be a better option.  The choice of location is as equally important, the more direct sunlight they have access to, the better it is for the lizard.  The exception to this is in hot areas, where Shinglebacks should have access to ample shade.  Shinglebacks prefer basking in the sun at the start and finish of each day, seeking shade in the middle of hot days.

Resource

Keeping Shingleback Lizards by Darren Green

What Size Enclosure?

The Pet Industry Association of Australia has developed a National Code of Practice for the care and management of companion animals (pets) which includes a recommendation for the size of enclosures for different species.   The recommendations are calculated by the size of the animal and are listed at the end of this article.
 
Reptile Trader believes that these recommendations can be used as a starting guide.
 
However other things should be taken into consideration when housing reptiles based on species specific behaviour.   For example 3 male geckos in an area of 20 x 30cm will most probably fight as there isn't enough territory for them all.  A fully grown arboreal South West Carpet Python will not be happy in an enclosure only 50cm high and unable to get off the ground.
 
When considering the type of housing you buy or build for your pet, don't just consider the size of the animal and the available space you have at home to fit the enclosure.  
Firstly consider what type of environment the animal is naturally found in.  This will give you an idea of the kind / size of furnishings required:
-          humid / wet
-          desert
-          local
-          woodland
-          scrubland
Secondly consider what type of behaviour the animal naturally displays:
-          Does it like to climb?  Does is sit on top of bushes, hide along branches or behind tree trunks?
-          Does it like to dig, to burrow underground?
-          Does it run quickly when it's active or to chase down its food?
-          Does it like to hide away inside a cave or under a rock?
 
Dragons – All Dragons bask in natural sunlight either sitting high on a chunky branch, down on a rock warmed by the sun or even flat out like a lizard on the sand soaking up heat from the ground.   Dragons will dig caves to lay their eggs, to get away from scorching summer heat, to brumate in the colder months, to hide from predators and probably just for fun!   Dragons are social and like to sit together (normally on top of each other!) and have a social hierarchy with the most dominant animal getting the best basking spot.  They chase down their live food quite quickly, especially Ta-ta Dragons which are incredibly quick!
 
A vivarium for Dragons should reflect these behaviours - height for branches, enough basking branches for each individual, 5-10cm of digging soil for substrate and room enough to chase down their food without water bowls and furnishings getting in the way.
 
Frill Necked Lizards – Frillies bask in natural sunlight either clinging to the side of a tree trunk or on the sand soaking up heat from the ground.   They are naturally very shy and will sidle around to the other side of their tree trunk to remove themselves from your view.  Frill Necked Lizards are found in tropical, humid parts of Australia in woodland and will come down to the ground to feed after a rain.  They lay their eggs underground and males are solitary animals with fairly large territories.  These animals get to over a metre long (including tails) and can run so fast they end up on just their hind legs!

A vivarium for Frillies should have enough height for tree trunks tall enough for them to cling to without their tails dragging on the ground and trunks wide enough to hide their bodies if they choose.  Floor space should be big enough for the animal to chase down food without chasing its own tail!  Sand to dig in and deep enough to lay eggs in and a water bowl big enough to help increase the humidity in the enclosure through evaporation.

Frogs – Frogs need a damp / wet environment but in an escape-proof enclosure.  Frogs are major Houdini’s!  A lockable glass tank is definitely recommended.  Frog species such as the Western Green Tree Frog will submerge underwater quite happily hiding among plastic plants and rocks, while Northern Green Tree Frogs and Magnificent Frogs will spend most of their time up in the corner of the tank, under logs and on branches and plants.  Frogs NEED clean water – they are like little pumps sucking in water and pumping it out and absorb a lot of water through their skin.  They also lay their eggs in water.

A vivarium for Frogs should have enough height for some branches and plastic or potted plants to sit on.  Floor space should have enough room for a big, deep water bowl, logs to hide under and enough room to chase down food.  Fine substrate such as sand and fish gravel will stick to skin and can accidentally be swallowed when eating.  Try astro turf (fake grass) or river pebbles.  The vivarium can be set up as a shallow fish tank with filter and water heater.  Also provide some “land” where they can bask and where they can chase down food (crickets). 

Turtles – Long Necked Turtles eat, sleep and poop underwater so they require a wet habitat that can be maintained ie filter, pump and water heater (they do not like to eat in a toilet!).  Water should be deep enough for the turtles to comfortably and safely swim under submerged branches or other furnishings.  They can often be shy and hide under logs or rocks for comfort.  Tanks should be big enough to have land and water.  The water area should be big enough to swim, explore, eat and hide and the “land” should be big enough for the turtle to dry out and bask under a heat lamp.  They will eventually get too big for any fish tank and will need to go in an escape-proof garden pond.
 
Monitors – Monitors love to dig (under rocks and plants) and they like to climb (branches and rock piles).  And monitors come in all sizes from the 20cm Stripe Tailed Pygmy Monitor (SVL) to the two metre Gould’s Monitor (including tail) with a foraging range of 2km in the wild.  They chase down their live food and will take defrosted mice from feed dishes.  Males fight during mating season and females bury their eggs underground.  They are solitary in the wild but seem to live happily enough in small communities.

A vivarium for a Monitor will definitely depend on the size of the species.  Height would be required for rock walls, branches and hanging plastic plants.  Floor space should be big enough for flat, slate-style rocks to dig and hide under as well as room for chasing down food comfortably.  There should also be enough room to provide a large water bowl and a feed dish.
 
BlueTongues – Bobtails, Centralians and Western Bluetongues generally hide in leaf litter, at the base of plants and under logs and dead wood.  They generally bask in the warmth of the morning sun and spend the rest of the day keeping cool or warm depending on the season.  They absorb heat from overhead sunlight and flatten out to soak up heat from warmed rocks through their bellies.  They will climb to get out of an enclosure – they are poor climbers, but determined escapists.

A vivarium for Bluetongue Lizards (whether an indoor enclosure or an outdoor pit) should have enough floor space for hiding logs, low plants and deep woodchips, wood shavings or bark.  A large flat rock under the heat lamp or a basking area exposed to morning sun should be big enough for all inhabitants.  Outdoor pits only need to be high enough to prevent determined climbers from escaping.
 
Pythons – Different species of python have different behaviours.  Stimson’s Pythons, Black Headed Pythons and Womas and Olive Pythons mostly prefer to be on the ground, underground (Black Headed Pythons and Womas are burrowers) or in hide rocks.  However even terrestrial pythons are excellent climbers and when they can’t “escape” under something, “up” always feels safe.  Carpet Pythons are arboreal and spend most of their time curled up in the fork of a tree. 

All python enclosures should have enough height for branches, however more should be allotted to the arboreal Carpet Python and rock climbing Olive Python.  Pythons also range in length from the one metre Stimson’s Python to the 6m Olive Python so vivariums should be big enough to create a “habitat” (not just a box to live in). Terrestrial species prefer more floor space and that would again depend on the length of the animal.  The enclosure should at be at least as long as the animal for terrestrial species and as high for arboreal species.  Sand is not always a suitable substrate due to issues with compaction (constipation caused by sand).  However if you feed your animal carefully you can easily use sand as a substrate, otherwise newspaper or butchers paper can be used as an alternative, even astro turf (fake grass).  Other furnishings must include hide rocks and water bowls.  You could also include rock walls (commercial or DIY), ledges and hollow logs.

Geckos – Arboreal geckos have sticky feet and camouflage by lying lengthways along skinny branches.  Terrestrial geckos don’t have the sticky pads on their feet and hide under pieces of bark and rocks.  They are nocturnal and most often only drink from rain drops or morning dew.  Many species lay their eggs underground.

Vivariums for arboreal geckos should especially be escape-proof as they can climb glass.  There should also be enough height to provide plenty of branches to hide amongst.  Terrestrial geckos should have a vivarium big enough to provide low lying branches to climb, flat slate-style rocks arranged carefully as caves to hide under as well as hide rocks and sizable pieces of bark.  A substrate of sand approx 10cm deep is suitable for most species.  Always provide a shallow or half-filled water bowl (as smaller animals may drown) however a heavy spray from a mist bottle every day will provide the animal’s most likely source of drinking water.

National Code of Practice 2005 – Vivarium Recommendations

Lizards
Geckos, skinks, etc
Up to 25cm snout to vent length (SVL) require:
-          a minimum floor area of 1800cm²
-          minimum width 30cm
-          minimum height 20cm
-          max number of animals 3 adults or 10 juveniles
 
Monitors, Dragons, etc
Up to 30cm total length require:
-          a minimum floor area of 2100cm²
-          minimum width 40cm
-          minimum height 40cm
-          max number of animals 3 adults or 10 juveniles
 
Up to 50cm total length require:
-          a minimum floor area of 2500cm²
-          minimum width 40cm
-          minimum height 40cm
-          max number of animals 2 adults or 5 juveniles
 
Up to 90cm total length require:
-          a minimum floor area of 7000cm²
-          minimum width 90cm
-          minimum height 60cm
-          max number of animals 1
 
Monitors
Up to 120cm total length require:
-          a minimum floor area of 10000cm²
-          minimum width 90cm
-          minimum height 90cm
-          max number of animals 1
 
Up to 200cm total length require:
-          a minimum floor area of 30000cm²
-          minimum width 150cm
-          minimum height 120cm
-          max number of animals 1
Snakes
Up to 100cm total length require:
-          a minimum floor area of 2000cm²
-          minimum width 45cm
-          minimum height 35cm
-          max number of animals 2
 
Up to 100-250cm total length require:
-          a minimum floor area of 4500cm²
-          minimum width 50cm
-          minimum height 50cm
-          max number of animals 2
 
Up to 250-400cm total length require:
-          a minimum floor area of 6000cm²
-          minimum width 50cm
-          minimum height 50cm
-          max number of animals 2
 
Over 400cm total length require:
-          a minimum floor area of 10000cm²
-          minimum width 90cm
-          minimum height 75cm
-          max number of animals 1
 
Frogs
Small:
-          a minimum floor area of 1800cm²
-          minimum width 30cm
-          minimum height 40cm
-          max number of animals 3
 
Large:
-          a minimum floor area of 2500cm²
-          minimum width 50cm
-          minimum height 30cm
-          max number of animals 6
 
Tortoises
Carapace 0-10cm:
-          a minimum floor area of 1800cm²
-          minimum width 30cm
-          minimum water depth 20cm
-          max number of animals 3
 
Carapace 10-20 cm:
-          a minimum floor area of 3600cm²
-          minimum width 40cm
-          minimum water depth 30cm
-          max number of animals 3
 
Carapace over 20cm:
-          a minimum floor area of 6000cm²
-          minimum width 40cm
-          minimum water depth 30cm
-          max number of animals 3

Outdoor Enclosures Part Two - Stimson's Pythons

Outdoor Enclosures - Part 2

Stimson’s Pythons

An outdoors enclosure allows Stimson’s Pythons to benefit from the natural sunlight and seasonal weather conditions where they tend to exhibit a more natural behaviour and give the keeper a better understanding of their habits. The outdoor cage should be similar to a bird aviary but this is not a hard and fast rule as aviaries are often too large for a few snakes.  Lizard enclosures are equally as good if not better; a ground surface area of around 1200 x 900mm is suitable for an adult pair.  An outdoor enclosure is suitable if the snake naturally occurs in your geographic area otherwise keeping indoors should be considered.  Stimson’s Pythons (Antaresia stimsoni stimsoni) are found in most of WA north of Geraldton and east as far as the wheatbelt.  Some keepers provide a doorway leading from an indoor enclosure to an outside one.  Others use an outdoors enclosure during summer and an indoors enclosure during the cooler months of winter, which would be more suitable for the Stimson’s Python.

Outdoor enclosures can be constructed from almost any building material providing its escape proof and there are no sharp surfaces for the animal to hurt/cut themselves on or rough enough to damage noses if rubbed against.  Walls are typically made from corrugated iron, cement sheet, bricks or weld mesh.  The walls should be buried into the ground to stop the snakes from pushing their way out and also to stop feral rodents from digging in.  A roof will keep unwanted predatory animals out and is usually constructed from metal or weld mesh.  The enclosure should be rigid to prevent pythons pushing against a material that it feels will eventually give way.

Ensure that the enclosure is escape-proof.  Check for gaps that are small enough for the snake to squeeze through especially where walls meet the roof.  The area should also be well drained to prevent flooding and furnished with rocks, logs, branches and plants to provide plenty of opportunity for exercise.

If the Carpet Python does not naturally occur in your geographic area then a few extra provisions should be made, otherwise keeping indoors should be essential.  Some keepers provide a thermal retreat (commonly known as a “hot box”).  This is basically a heated box similar to an indoor enclosure which the snake may seek out to rise its body temperature.

Always keep a close eye on any snakes housed outdoors, paying particular attention to feeding, signs of ailments and parasites.  Check and correct any inappropriate environmental conditions are too hot, use solid walls to stop draughts, use higher wattage globes for heating if it’s too cold, etc.  Otherwise keep your Stimson’s Pythons indoors and consult a vet if an ailment is suspected.

Resource
Keeping Children’s Pythons by Greg Fyfe and Darren Green

Outdoor Enclosures Part One - Carpet Pythons

Outdoor Enclosures - Part 1

Carpet Pythons

An outdoors enclosure allows Carpet Pythons to benefit from the natural sunlight and seasonal weather conditions.  They are especially suitable in the Perth metro area as the South West Carpet Python is native to the south west region of Western Australia.  Some keepers provide a doorway leading from an indoor enclosure to an outside one.  Others use an outdoors enclosure during summer and an indoors enclosure during the cooler months of winter.

Outdoor enclosures can be constructed from almost any building material providing its escape proof and there are no sharp surfaces for the animal to hurt/cut themselves on or rough enough to damage noses if rubbed against.  Walls are typically made from corrugated iron, cement sheet, bricks or weld mesh.  The walls should be buried into the ground to stop the snakes from pushing their way out and also to stop feral rodents from digging in.  A roof will keep unwanted predatory animals out and is usually constructed from metal or weld mesh.  The enclosure should be rigid to prevent pythons pushing against a material that it feels will eventually give way.

Ensure that the enclosure is escape-proof.  Check for gaps that are small enough for the snake to squeeze through especially where walls meet the roof.  The area should also be well drained to prevent flooding and furnished with rocks, logs, branches and plants to provide plenty of opportunity for exercise.

If the Carpet Python does not naturally occur in your geographic area then a few extra provisions should be made, otherwise keeping indoors should be essential.  Some keepers provide a thermal retreat (commonly known as a “hot box”).  This is basically a heated box similar to an indoor enclosure which the snake may seek out to rise its body temperature.

Always keep a close eye on any snakes housed outdoors, paying particular attention to feeding, signs of ailments and parasites.  Check and correct any inappropriate environmental conditions are too hot, use solid walls to stop draughts, use higher wattage globes for heating if it’s too cold, etc.  Otherwise keep your Carpet Pythons indoors and consult a vet if an ailment is suspected.

Resource
Keeping Carpet Pythons by Simon Kortlang and Darren Green

Thermostats

A thermostat is a device for regulating the temperature of a heat lamp or other heat source so that the temperature in the enclosure is maintained near a specific temperature. This specific temperature is dependent on each particular species and it’s Preferred Body Temperature or PBT.  The thermostat does this by switching the heating device on or off as needed to maintain the correct temperature.  It switches the heat back on after the temperature in the enclosure has dropped by a couple of degrees.

Thermostats are an essential element in providing the correct heating for reptiles and amphibians in captivity. Reptiles and amphibians rely on environmental temperature to maintain the correct body temperature. Controlling the heat is an essential factor in keeping healthy, active pet reptiles. The temperature of your reptile’s environment affects many aspects of its health. For example, your snake may not eat if the temperature falls more than a few degrees below optimum because his instincts tell him it is time to hibernate.

In captivity, your reptile relies on you to provide an environment that it needs to stay healthy. Neither constant warmth nor constant cold is good for your reptile. A range in temperature should be provided to allow your reptile to move around the different temperature zones you create, such as basking areas or other cooler areas.  Thermometers monitoring temperatures in both the warm zone and cool zone will help you to set the thermostat correctly.

There are many different types of heating that can be used in enclosures; heat mats, heat bulbs and ceramic bulbs are all commonly used. The exact choice of heating device will depend on the species of reptile being kept. With such a wide variety of snakes, geckos and other lizards being kept as pets, no one type of heating equipment will suit all situations.

With the possible exception of heat mats, all these types of heating should be controlled with a good quality thermostat. This ensures complete control of the temperature in the enclosure for your reptile or amphibian.

It is very important that heating is only installed at one end of the enclosure.  This allows a cool area to develop away from the hot spot.  The difference in temperature between the warm end and the cool end is called the Thermal Gradient.

Coming into the warmer months now as summer approaches, the ambient temperature (room temperature) will be increasing and adding to the temperature in your pet’s enclosure put out by the heat source.  Most reptiles can put up with colder temperatures for a long time before they become sick, but overheating causes stress and death in a very short period of time.  ALL reptile habitats should be regulated using thermostats during the warmer months.

The two types of thermostats commonly used in reptile enclosures are Room Thermostats and Probe Thermostats.  Room Thermostats are usually mounted on the back wall of the enclosure and rely heavily on thermometer readings to set the PBT.  This is because it is regulating the heat where it is located, not where the heat source is located.   Probe Thermostats sit outside the enclosure and have a probe on a wire that can be easily inserted through a small hole into the enclosure and set up directly near the heat source to regulate the PBT.  Again thermometers are required to monitor the exact temperatures.

Since natural temperature requirements vary widely from species to species, remember to research your pet's particular needs. You can successfully keep your reptile happy and healthy with an informed eye, the right equipment, and a careful consideration of how environmental temperature changes affect your pet.

REPTILE TRADER

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Setting Up A Turtle Tank

Although Oblong Turtles over 20cm long should go in a pond, hatchlings and juveniles can be set up quite nicely in a large fish tank.

Here’s what you will need:
- A Tank
- Heat Lamp
- Water Heater
- Thermostat
- UV Light
- Thermometer
- Substrate
- Filter
- De-chlorinator

The tank should be filled with enough water (approx 1/3) for the turtle to be completely submerged and with enough room to swim under and over any furnishings.
Set up “land” in one part of the enclosure using rocks or gravel (or a commercial platform), which will allow the turtle to leave the water entirely to bask under the heat lamp.   The “land” can be set up at either end of the tank or in the middle and should be big enough for the turtle to bask comfortably and safely or big enough for all turtles to bask. 

Thermal Gradient
Create a thermal gradient in the tank using a heat lamp set up right above the “land” where the turtle basks.  They come in several wattages and you should take into consideration the size of your tank before choosing a bulb.  Oblongs don’t like it much more than 28°C so it’s important to control the max temperature using a thermostat at all times.   Air temperature should be maintained between 18 and 27°C.  Use a thermometer to keep an eye on the temperature. You can tell at a glance exactly what’s going on and avoid any harmful temperatures.

The thermal gradient in a turtle tank includes the relative coolness of the water.  In summer your turtle will simply slip into the water to cool off, but in winter, the water may be too cold for your turtle to eat and digest its food properly.  A water heater should be used and water temperature should be maintained between 16 and 24°C.  Oblong turtles don’t naturally brumate (hibernate) in the wild and water temperatures should be kept above 13°C in winter.

Lighting
The sun’s natural rays normally provide UVA/UVB and Vitamin D.  UV aids bone growth (including shells) and digestion.  Reptiles raised in captivity without UV suffer from a severe bone disorder called Metabolic Bone Disease (see our article on MBD) that creates deformities such as crooked spines, loss of digits, very weak and easily broken bones.  A UVA/UVB fluorescent lamp should be set up above the tank safely and turned on during daylight hours. 

Water
The water in your turtle’s tank is critical to its health.  Turtles eat, sleep and poop underwater.  Remembering that there is no paper or sand to change that gets dirtied by faeces or food, this all ends up in their water where they spend 90% of their time.
Tap water may be used to fill the tank but a water de-chlorinator is recommended to remove excess chlorine.  PH levels in the water need to remain neutral and this is an excellent indication of the level of cleanliness in the tank.

Filtration
Due to little bits of leftover food and excrement in the water, filtration is essential for your turtle tank.  By removing waste matter from the water, water filters also help balance the PH levels.

Substrate
Common fish gravel and small smooth pebbles are recommended as a substrate at the bottom of a turtle’s tank.  Both are easy to clean and there are no ongoing costs associated with replacing the substrate.

Furniture
Turtles are fairly active and inquisitive.  Furnishing such as rocks, underwater branches, and commercial furniture all add to an underwater playground for your pet.  Make sure no furniture can be pushed over or fall on your pet.   Rocks and branches that are not bought commercially should be scrubbed with a mild soap and bleach solution (rinse thoroughly) before using them in the tank.  Plastic plants are excellent, as they can’t be eaten and also offer a place to hide.  Rearrange every so often – it adds to interest, activity in exploring a new environment and exercise.

Have fun and don't forget, if you have any questions, feel free to send us an email or give us a call!

Wire Cages - Beware Burns

When you set up an enclosure you can put the heat lamp and/or UV globe on TOP of the enclosure or wire it up on the INSIDE.  If you set up the lighting and heating on the inside you must always cover lamps with a wire cage.  They come in a few sizes and can cover lamps up to 160W and 2 foot fluro tubes, so you should be able to find one to suit the lights you are using.

What happens if you don’t use wire cages?

Thermal burns are probably one of the worst injuries that can occur and they can be fatal.

Snakes have thicker scales on their bellies for cruising over the hot Aussie landscape and basking in nice warm places.  If a snake has access to a heat lamp it will sit on the globe to warm up.  Because his belly scales are thicker than the rest of his body, it takes longer for it to register that it is too hot and by the time it moves the damage is already done. 

Lizards such as Dragons will climb branches to get as close to their heat source as possible and will get on top of the globe or rest a foot on a globe and get burned. 

And don’t think it’s just heat lamps that are the culprit.  Exposed UV tubes will also build up enough heat to burn if the animal sits on it for long enough.

Thermal burns are as bad for reptiles as they are for humans – they can get infected, cause “Belly Rot” and can easily be fatal.

The moral of the story….. USE WIRE CAGES TO COVER YOUR LIGHTS!

I must add a PS to the use of wire cages though.  Wire cage mesh is similar to bird cage mesh and the holes in it are quite small but beware the hatchling python – he may be able to squeeze through!  When housing hatchlings have the heat source set up on the outside of the enclosure or cover the wire cage securely with wire flyscreen or something similar that won’t melt.

Python Escapes

One of the most important aspects of housing pythons is making sure that they cannot escape.  We cannot stress this enough to new keepers!

At Reptile Trader we always recommend the securest enclosures for pythons because we have experienced how slippery these suckers can really be!

We have had a Black Headed Python push an unsecured vent out of the side of an enclosure to try and escape and many Stimson’s Pythons try to squeeze through the gap where the glass doors cross over (see photos).

The diagram above shows where the internal organs are inside a python.  You can easily see where the heart and lungs are.   

                       

Sorry about the quality of the photos, but you can see here, this Stimson’s Python is fully-grown.  It has managed to squeeze almost half of its body through a 5-8mm gap squashing its vital organs in the process!  (All enclosures were fitted with 5mm angle iron to block the gap between the glass after this attempted escape).

A lot of thought must be put into any enclosure you decide to use to house a python.  Glass fish tanks with unsecured lids (including a brick on top to hold it down) are unsuitable because with enough leverage a python is strong enough to push and get out!  Rubber stripping and angle iron work well, cardboard often doesn’t.  Never use anything sticky like glue or tape residue – you could stick the python to the enclosure!  Great care must be used in this circumstance to ensure that the python is removed without losing any skin.

Natural Sunlight

I had a call today from a young man that had set up the enclosure for his Western Bearded Dragon next to a sunny window using a red nocturnal lamp as a heat source.

Natural sunlight is indeed beneficial to all reptiles.  Setting up an outdoor enclosure that is escape-proof and provides some shade is a great way for reptiles to enjoy some time outside.

However putting your pet’s enclosure near a window for a source of heat or UV is completely inefficient and will ultimately harm your pet.

Dragons are diurnal, so their enclosures should be set up with daylight basking lamps and a UV fluro both of which can be turned off at night.

Daylight basking lamps range from 50W to 160W and you should take into consideration the size of your enclosure before choosing a bulb.  Ideally it should be situated at one end of the enclosure and either attached to the inside of the lid or sitting on top of the enclosure (not directly on any glass).  All lamps set up inside the enclosure must be covered (such as a wire cage covering) to avoid any burns to your pet.  A thermostat is highly recommended to control the temperature (except when using self ballasted UV lamps).

A UVA/UVB fluorescent lamp should be attached to the inside of the lid or on top of the enclosure and turned on during daylight hours.  If it’s inside the enclosure it needs to be covered to avoid burns to your pet.  UV tubes are specifically made to give off the correct amount of UVA and UVB that reptiles require and Vitamin D, which is normally provided by the sun’s natural rays.  UV aids bone growth and digestion.  Reptiles raised in captivity without UV suffer from a severe bone disorder called Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) that creates deformities such as crooked spines, loss of digits, very weak and easily broken bones.

Thermal Gradients

Firstly, back to basics.  How are reptiles different from other animals?

Animals such as mammals and birds have the same body temperature at all times (within a few degrees) whether they are exposed to a cold winter day or a hot summer afternoon. 

However, expose a reptile to a cold winter day and it's body temperature will drop down until it is almost the same as the ambient temperature, its metabolism will slow right down and eventually it will die.  Expose a reptile to a hot summer afternoon and its body temperature will quickly rise until it reaches critical point and becomes fatal.

Reptiles and amphibians are ectothermic which means that these animals draw their body heat from the environment and regulate their preferred temperature through behaviour. To increase body temperature they will bask in direct sunlight or on a heated surface such as a rock. To decrease it they can retreat to the shade, climb a shrub or tree, or enter a burrow or water.

When keeping reptiles as pets, enclosures should therefore provide a Thermal Gradient with an appropriate range of temperature that can be regulated using a thermostat and monitored using a thermometer inside the cage.

This normally involves a ‘hot spot’ for basking at one end of the cage and the opportunity to move well away from this to cool off. 

                              hot corner

                                                                                        cold corner

Ideally there should be a difference in temperature of approx 5-7 degrees between the hot corner and the cold corner, but this will depend on the size of the enclosure.