Care Sheet - Frilled Neck Lizards

FRILLED NECK LIZARDS

Chlamydosaurus kingii – Category 4

NECESSITIES

·         VIVARIUM

·         UVA/UVB LIGHTING

·         DAY HEAT GLOBE    

·         SUBSTRATE             

·         WATER BOWL         

·         THERMOSTAT          

Dragons can live for up to 20 years in captivity.

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M.  See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

Frilled Neck Lizards can reach 95cm in length from head to tail, can weigh up to 500g and the diameter of the frill can reach 20-25cm.  They are fairly active diurnal lizards that like to climb.  Enclosures therefore need to reflect the animal’s size and type of activity.  An enclosure for one adult Frilled Neck Lizard should be a MINIMUM of 4’ high x 3’ wide.  Custom built enclosures are a good option as you can build the biggest enclosure you can in your available space.  These animals spend a lot of their time in trees in the wild, so furnish their enclosure with tall vertical climbing branches that will support their weight. 

Substrate

Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is suitable for adult Frilled Neck Lizards.  However, very young lizards can accidentally ingest sand when they eat causing compaction (constipation from ingesting sand).  This can be avoided by either using a paper substrate or by hand feeding the animal outside of the enclosure.

Red pindan sand is available in specialised pet shops with a range of coloured sand also available including Reptilite calcium sand that can be used on top.

Humidity and Water

Humidity levels of 50-70% should be provided and you can do this by supplying these lizards with a large water bowl with clean water at all times.  It should be large enough to bathe in (but shallow for very young dragons).  If humidity levels become too high, respiratory problems may occur.

Temperature and Lighting

Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the dragons to heat up and cool off, as they require.  The hot spot should be approximately 35-38°C with the cool end approximately 24-27°C.  If temperatures are likely to drop below 18°C overnight, use a night heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter that give off little light but enough heat to keep the animal warm on cold nights.

The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used and sometimes a combination of lamps is required to get the right amount of heat.  Consider using Mercury Vapour Bulbs that are basking and UV lights all in one.

A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer.  Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB tube as well for 10 hours during winter and 12 hours during summer each day to provide the UVB light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone structure). 

Food

Frilled Neck Lizards are omnivorous (meat and veg) and eat a LOT and they get a lot of their moisture requirement from their food.  Wait until at least an hour after the heat lamp comes on before you feed them and feed them at least two hours before the heat goes off giving them plenty of time to digest their food properly.

They can be fed live crickets, large mealworms, pinky mice, roaches, cooked eggs and canned reptile food.  You can also feed them a mixture of tinned cat food (no fish) with grated carrot and finely chopped lettuce. 

Gutload insects before feeding.  Dust insects and pinkies with calcium supplement powder every day for juveniles and every second day for adults.  These lizards grow fairly quickly and UVB and calcium are essential for healthy bone development or they run the very real risk of Metabolic Bone Disease.

Feed hatchlings and juveniles twice a day and adults once a day.

Handling

Frilled Neck Lizards have very strong personalities and are naturally curious.  Young ones can be shy at first but they warm up to their keepers quickly.  When handling them, place the bulk of their body in your palm with your hand and forearm held as a ‘tree’ for the animal to grip.  However they may prefer to sit on your shoulder or head.  Remember their claws are fairly long and sharp for climbing. If startled, they could inflict nasty scratches.

Wash your hands before and after handling your dragon.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin.  Use before handling your pet.

Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Gutload – to fully nourish insects before feeding off.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.

Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

Accessories

Feeding Bowl, Plastic Plants, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Cricket Feeder, Termite Mound, Water Well, Mealworm Bowl, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Waterfall, Basking Rock, Little Dripper, Roach Off, Jungle Vines and plastic plants for decoration.

Health

Colloidal Silver – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal tonic used to keep water fresh, to help control parasites and worms.  Add a teaspoon to drinking water or dab on minor wounds.                                                                      

Body Guard – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal spray that can be used for cleaning the interior of the enclosure as well as bark, branches, water and food bowls.  Also used for the treatment of minor wounds and aids in healthy shedding.

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.                         

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper.    

Recommended Websites:

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.

Care Sheet - Bobtails & Bluetongues

BOBTAILS & BLUETONGUES

Western Bluetongue – Category 2

Bobtail – Category 2

Centralian Bluetongue – Category 2

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM                                UVA/UVB LIGHTING   

DAY HEAT GLOBE                 HEAT MAT                 

SUBSTRATE                          WATER BOWL                     

THERMOSTAT                      

Bobtails and Bluetongues can live for up to 25 years.

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M.  See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

Indoor enclosures should be at least 1.5 metres long and 50cm wide with side, back or ceiling ventilation.  Outdoor pit enclosures can be at least 1.5 metres x 1.5 metres with walls at least 50cm high to avoid escapes. These animals prefer a fair bit of floor space.  Plenty of shade is required in outdoor enclosures using plants or hide boxes.  Shade cloth or wire mesh should be used to keep out cats and birds of prey.

Substrate

Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is available at pet stores and is parasite free.  Bagged bark chips are ideal for these lizards, as they like to bury themselves when they sleep.

Humidity and Water

Bluetongues and Bobtails are susceptible to respiratory infections when exposed to too much humidity.  Offer water in a bowl every 2 or 3 days to animals housed indoors (more often in summer).  Permanent water can be supplied in outdoor enclosures.

Temperature and Lighting

Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the lizard to heat up and cool off, as it requires.  The hot spot should be approximately 30°C.  The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used.  A heat mat should be placed under the substrate at the warm end of the enclosure (especially in winter) as these lizards absorb most of their heat from the ground.

A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer.  Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB globe for 8-10 hours in winter, 12-14 hours in summer each day to provide the UV light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone structure).   Heat and UV lamps aren’t required for outdoor pit housing, however Bluetongues will brumate (hibernate) during winter.

Food

Centralians and Western Bluetongues eat mostly insects but also some vegetation that can be provided with chopped up fruit and veg. Commercial insects are available live such as crickets,

woodies and mealworms or canned insects.  Dusting food with calcium/vitamin powder helps provide full nutritional value.  Feed adults every 2 or 3 days and babies daily.

Bobtail diets consist of fresh fruit and vegetables (except capsicums and onions) as well as snails, dog food (no fish), defrosted mice, scrambled eggs and insects (canned mealworms are a favourite). Grate or chop fruit and veg into small pieces and serve all food at room temperature.  Offer a big meal once a week and serve treats (defrosted mice or snails) in between.  Feed babies daily.

Note: If your Bluetongue is not eating check that your temperature is warm enough.

Handling

Bluetongues don’t mind being handled as long as there is support under their belly.  They like people because they know food is involved!  These lizards are easily handfed.  Feel free to put them in a secure part of the garden during the day to forage and for some exercise. Wash your hands before and after handling your lizard.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin.  Use before handling your pet.

Hide Rock – to sleep and feel secure.

Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure.

Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.

Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

Remember to wash branches and logs from the bush with bleach solution before putting them in the enclosure.

Accessories

Water bowl, Feeding Bowl, Plastic Plants, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock.

You should also add low logs for climbing, hollow logs for hiding under and perhaps plastic plants for decoration – they are much easier to clean.

Health

Colloidal Silver – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal tonic used to keep water fresh, to help control parasites and worms.  Add a teaspoon to drinking water or dab on minor wounds.                                                                      

Body Guard – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal spray that can be used for cleaning the interior of the enclosure as well as bark, branches, water and food bowls.  Also used for the treatment of minor wounds and aids in healthy shedding.

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.                         

*CARE – Watch for signs of a cold (watery eyes, runny nose), as this may be fatal to your pet.  The temperature should be turned up and your Bluetongue should be taken to your local vet.

Recommended Reading

Keeping Shingleback Lizards by Darren Green

Recommended Website

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader!     

Care Sheet - Geckos

GECKOS

TERRESTRIAL -         Binoes’s Gecko – Category 2   

                                      Three-line Knob-tail Gecko  - Category 3

                                      Thick Tailed Gecko – Category 3

ARBOREAL -     Tree Dtella – Category 2

Northern Spiny-tailed Gecko – Category 2

South-west Spiny-tailed Gecko –Category 2

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM                                NOCTURNAL HEAT LAMP    

SUBSTRATE                          WATER BOWL         

THERMOSTAT                       PLASTIC PLANTS

SPRAY BOTTLE       

Geckos can live for up to 10 years.

Geckos are primarily nocturnal.

Binoes                                   Three lined knob tail              Thick tailed Gecko

    Tree Dtella                               Northern Spiny Tail              SW Spiny Tail

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M.  See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

Enclosures should be at least 40cm x 20cm x30cm high with ventilation at or near the top for a pair of adult geckos.  Glass terrariums (fish tanks) with secure lids can be used for Thick Tailed Geckos as they can’t climb the glass (ie terrestrial).  Enclosures must be secure and escape proof especially for arboreal geckos.

Substrate

Desert Blend, commercially cleaned sand and a range of coloured sand is available. 

Humidity and Water

Provide a small water bowl with clean water at all times.  A pebble or two in a deep water-bowl will prevent accidental drowning.  Daily misting with a water bottle is required especially in summer, as geckos prefer to drink from dew and raindrops.

Temperature and Lighting

Place either a nocturnal heat lamp at one end of the enclosure or a heat mat or heat cord under one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the geckos to heat up and cool off as they require.  The hot spot should be approximately 28°C.  The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used. 

As geckos are mostly nocturnal, UV lighting in not required.

Food

Geckos only eat insects such as crickets, woodies and mealworms, which are commercially available. Dusting food with calcium/vitamin powder helps provide full nutritional value.  Feed adults every 2 or 3 days and babies daily.

Handling

Geckos are the kind of pet to be observed and not so much handled.  If handled incorrectly they may drop their tails.  Although the tail grows back, it may not have the original distinctive markings (especially on knob-tails). If you wish to hold your gecko, do NOT accidentally grab it by the tail.  Also note that they are very quick and will jump.  Wash your hands before and after handling your gecko.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Hide Rock – to sleep and feel secure such as Exo Terra magnetic Reptile Den that allows you to see your geckos even when they are sleeping.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin.  Use before handling your pet.

You should also add branches for climbing and camouflage depending on the gecko species and plastic plants (geckos will drink the misted water off the leaves).

Optional Extras

Heat Mat – can be used on its own or in conjunction with a nocturnal heat lamp.

Heat Cord – can be used on its own or in conjunction with a nocturnal heat lamp. 

Day Heat Lamp – used in conjunction with the nocturnal lamp to give a distinctive day/night cycle.

UV Lamp - used in conjunction with the nocturnal lamp to give a distinctive day/night cycle.

Accessories

Cricket Feeder, Termite Mound, Waterwell, Plastic Plants, Hide Log, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Mealworm Bowl, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Basking Rock, Little Dripper, Roach Off, Jungle Vines. 

Health

Colloidal Silver – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal tonic used to keep water fresh, to help control parasites and worms.  Add a teaspoon to drinking water or dab on minor wounds.                                                                      

Body Guard – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal spray that can be used for cleaning the interior of the enclosure as well as bark, branches, water and food bowls.  Also used for the treatment of minor wounds and aids in healthy shedding.

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.                          

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper.    

Recommended Reading

Care of Australian Reptiles in Captivity by John Weigel

Geckos: Professional Breeder by FW Henkel

Photograph of Three Lined Knob Tail courtesy of Jim Bloomfield / Iron Ocean.

Recommended Website

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.        

Care Sheet - Venomous Snakes

VENOMOUS SNAKES

Southern Death Adder – Category 5 

Desert Death Adder – Category 5

Pilbara Death Adder – Category 5                   

Western Tiger Snake – Category 5

Mulga Snake – Category 5 

Spotted Mulga Snake – Category 5
Dugite – Category 5

Gwardar – Category 5

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM

INFRARED RED HEAT LAMP           

SUBSTRATE             

WATER BOWL         

THERMOSTAT          

Snakes can live for up to 25 years.

All species are active day and night

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M.  See above for the Category of licence.

 Southern Death Adder        Desert Death Adder         Pilbara Death Adder

Western Tiger Snake          Mulga Snake                       Spotted Mulga

Dugite                                  Gwardar

Housing

In all species listed except death adders, one adult (to 150 cm total length) can be kept indoors in a lockable, top-ventilated, all glass or glass-fronted wooden vivarium of at least 90 x 45 cm floor area. The height should be a minimum of 30 cm if front opening and 45 cm if top opening. Adult death adders require less room, 50 x 30 cm floor area being adequate, but for safety it is preferable to use a top opening vivarium to house these rapid-striking snakes. It is recommended that all venomous snakes be housed separately (except during mating) to avoid problems associated with removal for cleaning, or when feeding. Juveniles (less than 40 cm long) may be kept in smaller facilities. It is very important that cages be strongly constructed and escape-proof.

Substrate

Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is available.  Bagged bark chips, Desert Blend and a range of coloured sand is also available including Reptilite calcium sand.  Any floor covering used should be easy to clean and replaced regularly.

Humidity and Water

Provide a water bowl with clean water at all times.  Ideally it should be heavy enough to prevent tipping and large enough to bathe in to aid in shedding.

Temperature and Lighting

Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the snakes to heat up and cool off, as they require.  The hot spot should be approximately 32-34°C.  The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used. 

Food

All large elapids will accept dead rats and mice. Never hand feed, nor offer live prey, and never handle snakes after touching their food. Tongs and long-handled tweezers can be used to wriggle dead food in front of snake to stimulate feeding if necessary. In most cases food will be taken when placed on cage floor. Feed every 10 days or so a meal weighing about 5% of the snake’s weight, this should be enough for a snake that is adequately heated, although it is not uncommon for periods of fasting to occur, especially during the cool winter months. Juveniles may need to be fed every 7 days. Snakes may become very excited at feeding times, with keeper’s movement stimulating a hunting strike, so extra caution is required.

Handling

Venomous snakes, especially females, may be nervous in captivity. Snakes will occasionally strike at the glass when a person approaches. This is normal defensive behaviour. The snake will usually settle down after a short period, and the striking will subside. However, never consider a venomous snake to be tame – lax handling practices can earn you a trip to the hospital. Do not move a snake for several days after it has eaten, nor when in pre-slough condition – that is from commencement of "milky" eyes until it has shed its skin.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin.  Use before handling your pet.

Hide Rock – to sleep and feel secure.

Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure.

Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.

Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

You should also add branches for climbing to provide exercise.

Accessories

Feeding Tongs/Tweezers, Feeding Bowl, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Basking Rock, bendable Jungle Vines and plastic plants for decoration.  Remember - simplistic furnishings aid safe cleaning procedures.

Health

Colloidal Silver – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal tonic used to keep water fresh, to help control parasites and worms.  Add a teaspoon to drinking water or dab on minor wounds.                                                                      

Body Guard – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal spray that can be used for cleaning the interior of the enclosure as well as bark, branches, water and food bowls.  Also used for the treatment of minor wounds and aids in healthy shedding.

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.                          

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper.    

Recommended Reading:

Care of Australian Reptiles In Captivity by John Weigel

Snakes: A Complete Pet Owner’s Manual by Barrons

If you have your Category 5 licence you should already know what you’re doing anyway!

Recommended Website:

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.

Care Sheets - Turtles

TURTLES

Oblong Tortoise – Category 3

Flat-Shelled Turtle – Category 4

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM                    UVA/UVB LIGHTING   

HEAT LAMP                SUBSTRATE 

WATER HEATER       FILTER                       

AIR PUMP                   DE-CHOLRINATOR  

THERMOSTAT                      

Turtles can live for up to 50 years.

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M.  See above for the Category of licence.

Oblong Tortoise                                            Flat Shelled Turtle

Housing

Young turtles can be housed in an aquarium suitable for their size and adults should be housed in an outdoor pond.  Aquariums should be a minimum of 2 feet long, however this depends on the size of the turtle.  . Create ‘land’ out of rocks or gravel, big enough to sit on and position the heat lamp over the ‘land’.  Ponds should be 40cm deep and 100cm x 150cm, also set up with dry ‘land’ where the turtles can bask.  Shade cloth or chicken/bird wire should be used as a protective covering to keep cats and birds of prey out and turtles in.

Substrate

Aquarium gravel, river rocks and decorative pebbles can all be used as substrate.

Humidity and Water

Fill the aquarium to at least one-third, the water should be deep enough to swim under and over the furniture safely. The water needs to be aged with a commercial de-chlorinator and heated to approx 18°C with a water heater.  A good filtration and aeration system needs to be provided.

Temperature and Lighting

Place the heat lamp over the ‘land’ at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the turtle to heat up and cool off, as it requires.  The hot spot should be approximately 28°C.  The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used. 

A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer.  Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB globe for 12-14 hours each day to provide the UV light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone/shell structure). 

Food

Turtles have a wide variety in their diet including raw meat, insects, small mice, fish, yabbies, etc. Turtle Pellets, Brine Shrimp, Turtle Dinners, Bloodworms, Crickets and Mousicles are all commercially available.

Handling

Turtles don’t seem to like being carried and can cause nasty scratches with their claws.   Very young turtles should be handled carefully as their shells may chip.  However they can be hand fed (underwater) and don’t mind a roam around a secure part of the garden during the day to forage and for some exercise. Wash your hands before and after handling your turtle and clean any scratches immediately with antiseptic.

Recommended Extras

PH Test Kit – excess PH will make a turtle sick and is a good indicator of how clean/dirty the water is.

PH Adjusters – to help maintain ideal PH levels.

Thermometer – to monitor temperatures.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin.  Use before handling your pet.

Reptisafe 5 – water dechlorinator.

Nitrivec – breaks down ammonium and nitrates.

Algae Cure – breaks down algae.

Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Accessories

Plastic Plants, Hide Log, Floating Island, Rock Ledges, cleaned river rocks.  Plastic plants can’t be eaten and don’t add to PH levels.

Remember to clean all furnishings from the bush in mild bleach/detergent solution and rinse well before adding to the enclosure.  This will help reduce the introduction of mites, worms and other parasites.

HEALTH:

Body Guard – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal spray that can be used for cleaning the interior of the enclosure.  Also used for the treatment of minor wounds and aids in healthy shedding.

Multivitamins & Calcium – added to food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your pet using a dropper.

Recommended Reading:

Keeping Long-Necked Turtles by Darren Green

Aquatic Turtle Kit by Zoomed

Recommended Website:

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Rocky Reptiles. 

Care Sheet - Skinks

CREVICE & KING SKINKS

South-western Crevice Egernia - Category 2
King Skink - Category 3

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM

UVA/UVB LIGHTING

DAY HEAT GLOBE    

SUBSTRATE             

WATER BOWL         

THERMOSTAT          

Skinks can live for up to 15 years.

Both these skinks are diurnal.

CAUTION: Large skinks can deliver a painful bite.

Crevice Egernia                                King Skink

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M.  See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

These lizards will live in small family groups however, because of its large size, it is recommended that the King Skink be housed in a large outdoor, aviary-like enclosure. One or two adult pairs of crevice egernias can be maintained indoors in a top-ventilated, glass vivarium of at least 50 x 25 x 30 cm. Similar sized purpose built wooden or plastic cages are also suitable. Wire fronted cages are unsuitable for skinks. Enclosures must be secure and escape proof.

Substrate

Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is available.  Ba