Care Sheet - Frilled Neck Lizards

{ 1:00 PM, 6/12/2006 } { Posted in Care Sheets } { 2 comments } { Link }

FRILLED NECK LIZARDS

Chlamydosaurus kingii – Category 4

NECESSITIES

· VIVARIUM

· UVA/UVB LIGHTING

· DAY HEAT GLOBE

· SUBSTRATE

· WATER BOWL

· THERMOSTAT

Dragons can live for up to 20 years in captivity.

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

Frilled Neck Lizards can reach 95cm in length from head to tail, can weigh up to 500g and the diameter of the frill can reach 20-25cm. They are fairly active diurnal lizards that like to climb. Enclosures therefore need to reflect the animal’s size and type of activity. An enclosure for one adult Frilled Neck Lizard should be a MINIMUM of 4’ high x 3’ wide. Custom built enclosures are a good option as you can build the biggest enclosure you can in your available space. These animals spend a lot of their time in trees in the wild, so furnish their enclosure with tall vertical climbing branches that will support their weight.

Substrate

Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is suitable for adult Frilled Neck Lizards. However, very young lizards can accidentally ingest sand when they eat causing compaction (constipation from ingesting sand). This can be avoided by either using a paper substrate or by hand feeding the animal outside of the enclosure.

Red pindan sand is available in specialised pet shops with a range of coloured sand also available including Reptilite calcium sand that can be used on top.

Humidity and Water

Humidity levels of 50-70% should be provided and you can do this by supplying these lizards with a large water bowl with clean water at all times. It should be large enough to bathe in (but shallow for very young dragons). If humidity levels become too high, respiratory problems may occur.

Temperature and Lighting

Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the dragons to heat up and cool off, as they require. The hot spot should be approximately 35-38°C with the cool end approximately 24-27°C. If temperatures are likely to drop below 18°C overnight, use a night heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter that give off little light but enough heat to keep the animal warm on cold nights.

The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used and sometimes a combination of lamps is required to get the right amount of heat. Consider using Mercury Vapour Bulbs that are basking and UV lights all in one.

A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB tube as well for 10 hours during winter and 12 hours during summer each day to provide the UVB light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone structure).

Food

Frilled Neck Lizards are omnivorous (meat and veg) and eat a LOT and they get a lot of their moisture requirement from their food. Wait until at least an hour after the heat lamp comes on before you feed them and feed them at least two hours before the heat goes off giving them plenty of time to digest their food properly.

They can be fed live crickets, large mealworms, pinky mice, roaches, cooked eggs and canned reptile food. You can also feed them a mixture of tinned cat food (no fish) with grated carrot and finely chopped lettuce.

Gutload insects before feeding. Dust insects and pinkies with calcium supplement powder every day for juveniles and every second day for adults. These lizards grow fairly quickly and UVB and calcium are essential for healthy bone development or they run the very real risk of Metabolic Bone Disease.

Feed hatchlings and juveniles twice a day and adults once a day.

Handling

Frilled Neck Lizards have very strong personalities and are naturally curious. Young ones can be shy at first but they warm up to their keepers quickly. When handling them, place the bulk of their body in your palm with your hand and forearm held as a ‘tree’ for the animal to grip. However they may prefer to sit on your shoulder or head. Remember their claws are fairly long and sharp for climbing. If startled, they could inflict nasty scratches.

Wash your hands before and after handling your dragon.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet.

Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Gutload – to fully nourish insects before feeding off.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.

Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

Accessories

Feeding Bowl, Plastic Plants, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Cricket Feeder, Termite Mound, Water Well, Mealworm Bowl, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Waterfall, Basking Rock, Little Dripper, Roach Off, Jungle Vines and plastic plants for decoration.

Health

Colloidal Silver – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal tonic used to keep water fresh, to help control parasites and worms. Add a teaspoon to drinking water or dab on minor wounds.

Body Guard – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal spray that can be used for cleaning the interior of the enclosure as well as bark, branches, water and food bowls. Also used for the treatment of minor wounds and aids in healthy shedding.

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper.

Recommended Websites:

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.

Care Sheet - Bobtails & Bluetongues

{ 11:50 AM, 29/11/2006 } { Posted in Care Sheets } { 0 comments } { Link }

BOBTAILS & BLUETONGUES

Western Bluetongue – Category 2

Bobtail – Category 2

Centralian Bluetongue – Category 2

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM UVA/UVB LIGHTING

DAY HEAT GLOBE HEAT MAT

SUBSTRATE WATER BOWL

THERMOSTAT

Bobtails and Bluetongues can live for up to 25 years.

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

Indoor enclosures should be at least 1.5 metres long and 50cm wide with side, back or ceiling ventilation. Outdoor pit enclosures can be at least 1.5 metres x 1.5 metres with walls at least 50cm high to avoid escapes. These animals prefer a fair bit of floor space. Plenty of shade is required in outdoor enclosures using plants or hide boxes. Shade cloth or wire mesh should be used to keep out cats and birds of prey.

Substrate

Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is available at pet stores and is parasite free. Bagged bark chips are ideal for these lizards, as they like to bury themselves when they sleep.

Humidity and Water

Bluetongues and Bobtails are susceptible to respiratory infections when exposed to too much humidity. Offer water in a bowl every 2 or 3 days to animals housed indoors (more often in summer). Permanent water can be supplied in outdoor enclosures.

Temperature and Lighting

Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the lizard to heat up and cool off, as it requires. The hot spot should be approximately 30°C. The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used. A heat mat should be placed under the substrate at the warm end of the enclosure (especially in winter) as these lizards absorb most of their heat from the ground.

A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB globe for 8-10 hours in winter, 12-14 hours in summer each day to provide the UV light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone structure). Heat and UV lamps aren’t required for outdoor pit housing, however Bluetongues will brumate (hibernate) during winter.

Food

Centralians and Western Bluetongues eat mostly insects but also some vegetation that can be provided with chopped up fruit and veg. Commercial insects are available live such as crickets,

woodies and mealworms or canned insects. Dusting food with calcium/vitamin powder helps provide full nutritional value. Feed adults every 2 or 3 days and babies daily.

Bobtail diets consist of fresh fruit and vegetables (except capsicums and onions) as well as snails, dog food (no fish), defrosted mice, scrambled eggs and insects (canned mealworms are a favourite). Grate or chop fruit and veg into small pieces and serve all food at room temperature. Offer a big meal once a week and serve treats (defrosted mice or snails) in between. Feed babies daily.

Note: If your Bluetongue is not eating check that your temperature is warm enough.

Handling

Bluetongues don’t mind being handled as long as there is support under their belly. They like people because they know food is involved! These lizards are easily handfed. Feel free to put them in a secure part of the garden during the day to forage and for some exercise. Wash your hands before and after handling your lizard.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet.

Hide Rock – to sleep and feel secure.

Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure.

Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.

Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

Remember to wash branches and logs from the bush with bleach solution before putting them in the enclosure.

Accessories

Water bowl, Feeding Bowl, Plastic Plants, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock.

You should also add low logs for climbing, hollow logs for hiding under and perhaps plastic plants for decoration – they are much easier to clean.

Health

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.

*CARE – Watch for signs of a cold (watery eyes, runny nose), as this may be fatal to your pet. The temperature should be turned up and your Bluetongue should be taken to your local vet.

Recommended Reading

Keeping Shingleback Lizards by Darren Green

Recommended Website

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader!

Care Sheet - Geckos

{ 4:51 PM, 9/11/2006 } { Posted in Care Sheets } { 2 comments } { Link }

GECKOS

TERRESTRIAL - Binoes’s Gecko – Category 2

Three-line Knob-tail Gecko - Category 3

Thick Tailed Gecko – Category 3

ARBOREAL - Tree Dtella – Category 2

Northern Spiny-tailed Gecko – Category 2

South-west Spiny-tailed Gecko –Category 2

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM NOCTURNAL HEAT LAMP

SUBSTRATE WATER BOWL

THERMOSTAT PLASTIC PLANTS

SPRAY BOTTLE

Geckos can live for up to 10 years.

Geckos are primarily nocturnal.

Binoes Three lined knob tail Thick tailed Gecko

Tree Dtella Northern Spiny Tail SW Spiny Tail

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

Enclosures should be at least 40cm x 20cm x30cm high with ventilation at or near the top for a pair of adult geckos. Glass terrariums (fish tanks) with secure lids can be used for Thick Tailed Geckos as they can’t climb the glass (ie terrestrial). Enclosures must be secure and escape proof especially for arboreal geckos.

Substrate

Desert Blend, commercially cleaned sand and a range of coloured sand is available.

Humidity and Water

Provide a small water bowl with clean water at all times. A pebble or two in a deep water-bowl will prevent accidental drowning. Daily misting with a water bottle is required especially in summer, as geckos prefer to drink from dew and raindrops.

Temperature and Lighting

Place either a nocturnal heat lamp at one end of the enclosure or a heat mat or heat cord under one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the geckos to heat up and cool off as they require. The hot spot should be approximately 28°C. The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used.

As geckos are mostly nocturnal, UV lighting in not required.

Food

Geckos only eat insects such as crickets, woodies and mealworms, which are commercially available. Dusting food with calcium/vitamin powder helps provide full nutritional value. Feed adults every 2 or 3 days and babies daily.

Handling

Geckos are the kind of pet to be observed and not so much handled. If handled incorrectly they may drop their tails. Although the tail grows back, it may not have the original distinctive markings (especially on knob-tails). If you wish to hold your gecko, do NOT accidentally grab it by the tail. Also note that they are very quick and will jump. Wash your hands before and after handling your gecko.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Hide Rock – to sleep and feel secure such as Exo Terra magnetic Reptile Den that allows you to see your geckos even when they are sleeping.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet.

You should also add branches for climbing and camouflage depending on the gecko species and plastic plants (geckos will drink the misted water off the leaves).

Optional Extras

Heat Mat – can be used on its own or in conjunction with a nocturnal heat lamp.

Heat Cord – can be used on its own or in conjunction with a nocturnal heat lamp.

Day Heat Lamp – used in conjunction with the nocturnal lamp to give a distinctive day/night cycle.

UV Lamp - used in conjunction with the nocturnal lamp to give a distinctive day/night cycle.

Accessories

Cricket Feeder, Termite Mound, Waterwell, Plastic Plants, Hide Log, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Mealworm Bowl, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Basking Rock, Little Dripper, Roach Off, Jungle Vines.

Health

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper.

Recommended Reading

Care of Australian Reptiles in Captivity by John Weigel

Geckos: Professional Breeder by FW Henkel

Photograph of Three Lined Knob Tail courtesy of Jim Bloomfield / Iron Ocean.

Recommended Website

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.

Care Sheet - Venomous Snakes

{ 10:59 AM, 9/11/2006 } { Posted in Care Sheets } { 0 comments } { Link }

VENOMOUS SNAKES

Southern Death Adder – Category 5

Desert Death Adder – Category 5

Pilbara Death Adder – Category 5

Western Tiger Snake – Category 5

Mulga Snake – Category 5

Spotted Mulga Snake – Category 5
Dugite – Category 5

Gwardar – Category 5

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM

INFRARED RED HEAT LAMP

SUBSTRATE

WATER BOWL

THERMOSTAT

Snakes can live for up to 25 years.

All species are active day and night

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.

Southern Death Adder Desert Death Adder Pilbara Death Adder

Western Tiger Snake Mulga Snake Spotted Mulga

Dugite Gwardar

Housing

In all species listed except death adders, one adult (to 150 cm total length) can be kept indoors in a lockable, top-ventilated, all glass or glass-fronted wooden vivarium of at least 90 x 45 cm floor area. The height should be a minimum of 30 cm if front opening and 45 cm if top opening. Adult death adders require less room, 50 x 30 cm floor area being adequate, but for safety it is preferable to use a top opening vivarium to house these rapid-striking snakes. It is recommended that all venomous snakes be housed separately (except during mating) to avoid problems associated with removal for cleaning, or when feeding. Juveniles (less than 40 cm long) may be kept in smaller facilities. It is very important that cages be strongly constructed and escape-proof.

Substrate

Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is available. Bagged bark chips, Desert Blend and a range of coloured sand is also available including Reptilite calcium sand. Any floor covering used should be easy to clean and replaced regularly.

Humidity and Water

Provide a water bowl with clean water at all times. Ideally it should be heavy enough to prevent tipping and large enough to bathe in to aid in shedding.

Temperature and Lighting

Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the snakes to heat up and cool off, as they require. The hot spot should be approximately 32-34°C. The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used.

Food

All large elapids will accept dead rats and mice. Never hand feed, nor offer live prey, and never handle snakes after touching their food. Tongs and long-handled tweezers can be used to wriggle dead food in front of snake to stimulate feeding if necessary. In most cases food will be taken when placed on cage floor. Feed every 10 days or so a meal weighing about 5% of the snake’s weight, this should be enough for a snake that is adequately heated, although it is not uncommon for periods of fasting to occur, especially during the cool winter months. Juveniles may need to be fed every 7 days. Snakes may become very excited at feeding times, with keeper’s movement stimulating a hunting strike, so extra caution is required.

Handling

Venomous snakes, especially females, may be nervous in captivity. Snakes will occasionally strike at the glass when a person approaches. This is normal defensive behaviour. The snake will usually settle down after a short period, and the striking will subside. However, never consider a venomous snake to be tame – lax handling practices can earn you a trip to the hospital. Do not move a snake for several days after it has eaten, nor when in pre-slough condition – that is from commencement of "milky" eyes until it has shed its skin.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet.

Hide Rock – to sleep and feel secure.

Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure.

Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.

Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

You should also add branches for climbing to provide exercise.

Accessories

Feeding Tongs/Tweezers, Feeding Bowl, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Basking Rock, bendable Jungle Vines and plastic plants for decoration. Remember - simplistic furnishings aid safe cleaning procedures.

Health

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper.

Recommended Reading:

Care of Australian Reptiles In Captivity by John Weigel

Snakes: A Complete Pet Owner’s Manual by Barrons

If you have your Category 5 licence you should already know what you’re doing anyway!

Recommended Website:

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.

Care Sheets - Turtles

{ 11:53 AM, 25/10/2006 } { Posted in Care Sheets } { 0 comments } { Link }

TURTLES

Oblong Tortoise – Category 3

Flat-Shelled Turtle – Category 4

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM UVA/UVB LIGHTING

HEAT LAMP SUBSTRATE

WATER HEATER FILTER

AIR PUMP DE-CHOLRINATOR

THERMOSTAT

Turtles can live for up to 50 years.

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.

Oblong Tortoise Flat Shelled Turtle

Housing

Young turtles can be housed in an aquarium suitable for their size and adults should be housed in an outdoor pond. Aquariums should be a minimum of 2 feet long, however this depends on the size of the turtle. . Create ‘land’ out of rocks or gravel, big enough to sit on and position the heat lamp over the ‘land’. Ponds should be 40cm deep and 100cm x 150cm, also set up with dry ‘land’ where the turtles can bask. Shade cloth or chicken/bird wire should be used as a protective covering to keep cats and birds of prey out and turtles in.

Substrate

Aquarium gravel, river rocks and decorative pebbles can all be used as substrate.

Humidity and Water

Fill the aquarium to at least one-third, the water should be deep enough to swim under and over the furniture safely. The water needs to be aged with a commercial de-chlorinator and heated to approx 18°C with a water heater. A good filtration and aeration system needs to be provided.

Temperature and Lighting

Place the heat lamp over the ‘land’ at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the turtle to heat up and cool off, as it requires. The hot spot should be approximately 28°C. The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used.

A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB globe for 12-14 hours each day to provide the UV light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone/shell structure).

Food

Turtles have a wide variety in their diet including raw meat, insects, small mice, fish, yabbies, etc. Turtle Pellets, Brine Shrimp, Turtle Dinners, Bloodworms, Crickets and Mousicles are all commercially available.

Handling

Turtles don’t seem to like being carried and can cause nasty scratches with their claws. Very young turtles should be handled carefully as their shells may chip. However they can be hand fed (underwater) and don’t mind a roam around a secure part of the garden during the day to forage and for some exercise. Wash your hands before and after handling your turtle and clean any scratches immediately with antiseptic.

Recommended Extras

PH Test Kit – excess PH will make a turtle sick and is a good indicator of how clean/dirty the water is.

PH Adjusters – to help maintain ideal PH levels.

Thermometer – to monitor temperatures.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet.

Reptisafe 5 – water dechlorinator.

Nitrivec – breaks down ammonium and nitrates.

Algae Cure – breaks down algae.

Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Accessories

Plastic Plants, Hide Log, Floating Island, Rock Ledges, cleaned river rocks. Plastic plants can’t be eaten and don’t add to PH levels.

Remember to clean all furnishings from the bush in mild bleach/detergent solution and rinse well before adding to the enclosure. This will help reduce the introduction of mites, worms and other parasites.

HEALTH:

Body Guard – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal spray that can be used for cleaning the interior of the enclosure. Also used for the treatment of minor wounds and aids in healthy shedding.

Multivitamins & Calcium – added to food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your pet using a dropper.

Recommended Reading:

Keeping Long-Necked Turtles by Darren Green

Aquatic Turtle Kit by Zoomed

Recommended Website:

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Rocky Reptiles.

Care Sheet - Skinks

{ 11:43 AM, 25/10/2006 } { Posted in Care Sheets } { 0 comments } { Link }

CREVICE & KING SKINKS

South-western Crevice Egernia - Category 2
King Skink - Category 3

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM

UVA/UVB LIGHTING

DAY HEAT GLOBE

SUBSTRATE

WATER BOWL

THERMOSTAT

Skinks can live for up to 15 years.

Both these skinks are diurnal.

CAUTION: Large skinks can deliver a painful bite.

Crevice Egernia King Skink

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

These lizards will live in small family groups however, because of its large size, it is recommended that the King Skink be housed in a large outdoor, aviary-like enclosure. One or two adult pairs of crevice egernias can be maintained indoors in a top-ventilated, glass vivarium of at least 50 x 25 x 30 cm. Similar sized purpose built wooden or plastic cages are also suitable. Wire fronted cages are unsuitable for skinks. Enclosures must be secure and escape proof.

Substrate

Humidity and Water

Provide a water bowl with clean water at all times. Ideally it should be heavy enough to prevent tipping and large enough to bathe in to aid in shedding.

Temperature and Lighting

Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the monitors to heat up and cool off, as they require. The hot spot should be approximately 32-34°C. The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used.

A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB globe for 8-10 hours during winters and 12-14 hours during summer each day to provide the UV light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone structure).

Food

These skinks can have voracious appetites. All Egernia species are omnivorous, feeding on a variety of insects and some vegetable matter. In captivity, live insects are the preferred option to stimulate hunting activity. Live mealworms, crickets and woodies are readily available in pet shops and occasional offerings of canned pet meat (not fish), finely diced cheese, tomato, banana and lettuce leaf and non-toxic flowers such as daisies and hibiscus. Insects can be dusted with calcium/vitamin supplement. Feed once a week for adults and every 2-3 days for younger animals.

Handling

Generally shy in the wild but will settle and even remain active when humans are nearby. Handling should be kept to a minimum, however they do become quite accustomed to it. Avoid disturbing the main shelter site. These lizards are often curious in the wild. After being disturbed they will quickly take a peek to see if the danger has gone. They can sometimes be lured out from their protective cover by offerings of cheese or tomato. The crevice egernia’s depressed body enables it to squeeze into the cracks in blackboys, dead logs and rock crevices. The king skink utilises similar places, but will also excavate a burrow for shelter too. Wash your hands before and after handling your skink.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet.

Hide Rock – to sleep and feel secure.

Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure.

Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.

Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

Accessories

Feeding Bowl, Plastic Plants, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Cricket Feeder, Termite Mound, Water Well, Mealworm Bowl, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Basking Rock, Little Dripper, Roach Off, Jungle Vines and plastic plants for decoration.

Health

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper.

Recommended Website

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.

Care Sheet Pythons

{ 11:35 AM, 25/10/2006 } { Posted in Care Sheets } { 1 comments } { Link }

PYTHONS

Western Stimson’s Python – Category 3

Southwestern Carpet Python – Category 3

Black-headed Python – Category 4

NECESSITIES:

VIVARIUM NIGHT HEAT GLOBE

SUBSTRATE WATER BOWL

HIDE ROCK THERMOSTAT

THERMOMETER

Pythons can live for approximately 20 years.

Pythons are active day and night.

Stimson's Python SW Carpet Python Black Headed Python

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

Enclosures can be set up with horizontal floor space for the terrestrial Stimson’s and Black-headed pythons, vertically for the arboreal Carpet pythons or with height and extra floor space for all species. Have a good look at the dimensions and ventilation of commercial enclosures if you intend to build your own. Fish tanks are NOT recommended as glass loses heat too quickly, it has poor ventilation and heat from lighting may crack the glass. They are also difficult to secure and escapes are a hazard.

Substrate

Desert Blend, Bark, commercially cleaned Sand and a range of coloured sand is available. Newspaper or butchers paper is a good clean substrate.

Humidity and Water

Provide a water bowl large enough and deep enough for individuals to completely submerge in. Bathing is essential for sloughing. Ensure water bowls are cleaned regularly - not only are they for bathing, they are also a source of drinking water.

Temperature and Lighting

Place a nocturnal basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the python to heat up and cool off, as it requires. The hot spot should be approximately 28-35°C. (But remember your enclosure should be large enough to have a thermal gradient of at least 5-8°C or more). The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used. As pythons are mostly nocturnal, UV lighting in not required but can be used as a daylight cycle (we personally use them).

Food

A range of frozen rodents are commercially available. The size and quantity is relevant to the size of the python. A feeding chart should be provided when you purchase your python showing the size and quantity of food it has been offered. Offer food from every 3-4 days or every 5-7 days depending on the size of your python.

Handling

Pythons do get used to handling and often seem to enjoy it. Please don’t allow them onto the floor even if you think it’s safe. They are quick and can easily get stuck, hurt, lost or even escape. Don’t handle after they have eaten at least for a few days. Wash your hands before and after handling your python.

Recommended Extras

Repti Hand – hand cleaner that removes bacteria and food smells from your skin. Use before and after handling your python to clean your hands.

Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

A rough edged water bowl, rock or branch is required to help with the start of shedding

Include branches to climb for stimulation and exercise.

Optional Extras

Hygrometer – to measure humidity.

Heat mat – can be used in conjunction with the heat lamp for ground basking.

Heat rock – can be used in conjunction with the heat lamp for ground basking.

Reptihand – removes bacteria and food smells from you hands. Use before and after handling your python.

Accessories

Feeding Tongs, Feeding Dish, Plastic plants.

You should add branches, hide logs, small pot plants and/or plastic plants for a more natural looking environment. If you choose to use branches or logs from the bush make sure you use bleach to clean them before they go into your enclosure.

Health

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper.

Recommended Websites

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Recommended Reading

Guide to Keeping Australian Pythons

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.

Care Sheet - Monitors

{ 11:27 AM, 25/10/2006 } { Posted in Care Sheets } { 0 comments } { Link }

MONITORS

Stripe-tailed Pygmy Monitor - Category 3
Ridge-tailed Monitor - Category 4
Short-tailed Pygmy Monitor - Category 4
Black-tailed Monitor - Category 4

NECESSITIES

VIVARIUM

UVA/UVB LIGHTING

DAY HEAT GLOBE

SUBSTRATE

WATER BOWL

THERMOSTAT

Monitors can live for up to 25 years.

Monitor lizards are diurnal.

CAUTION: Monitors can deliver a painful and bloody bite and have sharp claws that can leave deep scratches in skin.

Stripe Tailed Pygmy Monitor Ridge Tailed Monitor Short Tailed Pygmy Monitor

Black Tailed Monitor

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

To house an adult pair of stripe-tailed or short-tailed monitors indoors you will require a glass vivarium such as a top-ventilated aquarium or purpose built, glass fronted, wooden box of at least 70 x 40 x 60 cm high. Wire fronted cages are unsuitable for monitors. The larger monitor species will require cages 120-150 x 60 x 60 cm. Enclosures must be secure and escape proof.

Substrate

Humidity and Water

Provide a water bowl with clean water at all times. Ideally it should be heavy enough to prevent tipping and large enough to bathe in to aid in shedding.

Temperature and Lighting

Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the monitors to heat up and cool off, as they require. The hot spot should be approximately 33-35°C. The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used.

Food

Captive monitors with a ready supply of food and little exercise are prone to getting fat. Try to regulate their food so that you keep them a little lean. Feed on a variety of insects (live crickets and woodies and canned insects are readily available at pet shops) small mice, canned pet food (no fish) and minced meat. Feed every 2-3 days, occasionally dusting meals with calcium/vitamin supplement. The more live food the better because this encourages your monitor lizard do what it does best - chase its prey with much excitement and get good exercise at the same time.

Handling

Captive bred monitors can be handled readily but are prone to run off or up. Care should be taken of their sharp claws used to hang on. Any scratches should be cleaned as soon as possible. Hold a monitor with one hand under its front legs (perhaps with a glove depending on the size of the monitor) and one hand with a firm but gentle grip at the base of the tail to prevent it from running off. Bigger monitors have been known to be trained to walk on a lead.

Care should be taken during breeding season or when there are too many monitors in one enclosure. They can be testy and bites are hard to dislodge and can cause nasty injuries even with a smaller monitor.

Wash your hands before and after handling your monitor.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet.

Hide Rock – to sleep and feel secure.

Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure.

Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.

Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

You should also add branches for climbing ideally arranged to reach the basking lamp.

Accessories

Health

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper.

Recommended Reading:

General Care & Maintenance of Monitors & Tegus by Michael Balsai

Recommended Website:

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.

Care Sheet - Frogs

{ 4:50 PM, 23/10/2006 } { Posted in Care Sheets } { 0 comments } { Link }

FROGS

Northern Green Tree Frog – Category 2

Western Green Tree Frog – Category 2

Magnificent Green Tree Frog – Category 3

NECESSITIES:

VIVARIUM UVA/UVB LIGHTING

SUBSTRATE NOCTURNAL HEAT GLOBE

WATER BOWL THERMOSTAT

SPRAY BOTTLE

Frogs live for approx 5 years but can live for up to 25 years in captivity.

Frogs are primarily nocturnal, with occasional daytime activity.

Northern Green Tree Frogs

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

Enclosures can be set up “wet” or “dry”. A “wet” enclosure is waterproof at the bottom and can be filled with approx 10cm of water. These tanks encourage breeding but a water heater and filter should be added to the list of necessities. A “dry” enclosure has substrate on the floor and large dishes for bathing and drinking.

Enclosures must be secure and escape proof.

Substrate

Fish gravel, river stones or smooth pebbles can be used in a “wet” enclosure. Clean pea gravel is can be used for “dry” enclosures, as it is harder for the live food to hide. Alternatively use a piece of Astro turf cut to size as this is easily cleaned and dried.

Humidity and Water

Tree frogs require high levels of humidity. In a “dry” enclosure use large, deep water bowls and mist the enclosure every 3-4 days with a spray bottle. Tap water needs to be treated with a de-chlorinator.

Temperature and Lighting

Place a nocturnal basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the frogs to heat up and cool off, as it requires. The hot spot should be between 24°-30°C allowing night temperatures to drop to approx 10-15°C (any colder than this may kill tropical frogs). The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used. A heat mat can be placed under the substrate at the warm end of the enclosure especially in winter for the tropical frogs to provide heat from above and from below.

A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using a simple electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB globe for 8-10 hours each day to provide the UV light they require.

Food

Frogs generally only eat live food, as movement is required to stimulate their feeding. Commercial food available includes crickets, woodies, mealworms and pinkies (frozen mice). You can also provide a dietary supplement from your home such as slaters, grasshoppers, moths and other insects (pesticide free). Keep the same size frogs together as they will also eat each other. Dusting food with calcium/vitamin powder helps provide full nutritional value. Feed adults 2 or 3 times a week and froglets daily.

Handling

Tree frogs are the kind of pet to be observed and not so much handled. A frog’s skin is very sensitive to the mildest chemicals and generally don’t like to be petted by rough human hands. If you wish to hold your frog, please wash your hands in clean water and hold your frog with wet hands. This will minimise any damage done to their skin. Northern Green Tree Frogs are quite placid and seem to be quite happy to sit on your hand for long periods before attempting to jump off. Wash your hands before and after handling your frog.

Recommended Extras:

Heat Mat – used as an alternative to a heat lamp during winter to help maintain overnight heat.

Heat Cord 15W – used as an alternative to a heat lamp during winter to help maintain overnight heat.

Thermometer – to easily monitor temperatures in the enclosure.

Water Heater – maintain the water temperature at a minimum of 15-18° in a “wet” enclosure, especially during winter.

Water Filter – to maintain clean water conditions in a “wet” enclosure.

Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure.

Optional Extras

Day Heat Lamp – used in conjunction with the nocturnal lamp to give a distinctive day/night cycle.

Accessories

Basking Rock, Cricket Feeder, Waterfall, Little Dripper, Fogger.

You may also want to add branches, hide logs, small pot plants and/or plastic plants for a more natural looking environment.

Health

Water Ager – dechlorinates tank and bathing water.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Recommended Reading

Care and Breeding of Popular Tree Frogs; by Philippe de Vosjoli, Robert Mailloux & Drew Ready

Frogs as Pets – A Guide to Keeping the Australian Green Tree Frog 1996; by Michael Tyler

Recommended Website

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

http://beckzfrogz.net

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader!

Care Sheet - Dragons

{ 4:42 PM, 23/10/2006 } { Posted in Care Sheets } { 0 comments } { Link }

DRAGONS

Western Bearded Dragon – Category 2

Western Netted Dragon – Category 3

NECESSITIES

· VIVARIUM

· UVA/UVB LIGHTING

· DAY HEAT GLOBE

· SUBSTRATE

· WATER BOWL

· THERMOSTAT

Dragons can live for up to 25 years.

*NOTE – Dragons are social animals and we recommend at least 2 together.

Western Bearded Dragon Western Netted Dragon

Requirements

You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.

Housing

Enclosures should be at least 100cm long and 50cm wide with top ventilation. Dragons are arboreal and require enough height in the enclosure to place branches for climbing. Enclosures must be secure and escape proof.

Substrate

Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is available. Bleached beach sand and red pindan sand are preferred as a base with a range of coloured sand also available including Reptilite calcium sand that can be used on top.

Humidity and Water

Provide a water bowl with clean water at all times. It should be large enough to bathe in (but shallow for very young dragons). Waterfalls can also be used.

Temperature and Lighting

Food

Dragons eat mostly insects but also some vegetation such as dandelion flowers and some finely chopped fruit and veg. Commercial insects are available live such as crickets, woodies and mealworms and so are canned insects. Dusting food with calcium/vitamin powder helps provide full nutritional value. Feed adults every 2 or 3 days and babies daily. Dragons are easily handfed.

Handling

Dragons quickly get used to being handled and may sit on your shoulder or hand happily. However they are quick and can jump. Please don’t allow them to wander around a room even if you think it’s safe. They are small and quick and can easily get stuck, hurt, lost or even escape. Wash your hands before and after handling your dragon.

Recommended Extras

Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements.

Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet.

Hide Rock – to sleep and feel secure.

Hide Log – to sleep and feel secure.

Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.

Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

You should also add branches for climbing ideally arranged to reach the basking lamp.

Accessories

Health

Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures.

Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.

Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper.

Recommended Reading:

Keeping Bearded Dragons by Darren Green

Recommended Website:

www.calm.wa.gov.au

www.reptiletrader.com.au

www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.

About Me

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BeckzFrogz
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Care Sheet - Frilled Neck Lizards

Care Sheet - Bobtails & Bluetongues

Care Sheet - Geckos

Care Sheet - Venomous Snakes

Care Sheets - Turtles

Care Sheet - Skinks

Care Sheet Pythons

Requirements

Care Sheet - Monitors

Care Sheet - Frogs

FROGS

Northern Green Tree Frog – Category 2

Housing

Humidity and Water

Temperature and Lighting

A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using a simple electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB globe for 8-10 hours each day to provide the UV light they require.

Food

Handling

Care Sheet - Dragons

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