Motorbike Travels & Observations in the Lucky Country | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Lions Road
{ 17:28, Wednesday 1 July 2009 }
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The Lions Road Back in the early '70s a group of Lions Club members from Kyogle (ky-oh-gul) in rural northern New South Wales decided to try to increase trade, promote tourism and gain better access to the equally rural and remote Hinterland of south east Queensland near the small town of Rathdowney. A new farm to market road was needed. The main obstacle was the massive front of the Border Ranges separating the two states. The basalt peaks are part of the volcano caldera, or bowl, that makes up the valley of the Tweed Coast and the towns of Nimbin, Murwillumbah, and extending beyond Kyogle. A volunteer crew were organised and the hard work begun. At one stage a school bus (not the big yellow kind familiar to North Americans) came towards me and the driver actually yielded to the right, slowing way down to give me some much-needed space. I waved in grateful thanks. Not long after that incident as I approached a narrow floodway (many of the bridges have been rebuilt after washing out during the recent heavy flooding) a Toyota Land Cruiser came barrelling down into the cement river crossing before me. I yielded but he gave no room and ran me in to the heavy and loose gravel at the roadside. My front tyre nearly washed out. The only reason it didn't was my speed - I was travelling barely 20 kph - and the two recent front end washouts have me quite attuned to careful braking and light- handed steering inputs on the 'bars. Survival is key. The driver behind him, apparently aware of my struggle on the other side stuck his arm up and waved me over since I had the momentum. I added a hearty 'thank you' wave back to him as I passed and he nodded, giving me the thumbs up. Within 74 kilometres of veering off the highway in Rathdowney, Queensland, The Lions Road meets up with the main east-west route known as Summerland Way. In fifteen or so kilometres the town of Kyogle appears. It's a clean farming town with a coupla petrol stations and a busy main street full of shops and cafes. I have visited before on a road trip up from the south and had enjoyed a pot of tea with scones and fresh jam and cream whilst sitting at a table on the crowded footpath. The locals seemed content as they went about their business. This day I had much the same feeling. I will return and check it out further. Central OZ Autumn Moto-Walkabout
{ 18:53, Tuesday 30 June 2009 }
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Day One: I’ve been known to point the old motorbike’s front tyre in a different direction from where I’d thought I’d go just the night before. It isn’t exactly living on the ragged edge, but keeps life interesting for me. I went to sleep the night before my departure knowing I’d be in Port Augusta, South Australia before too long, and the wide open expanse of either the Nullarbor Plains or the red centre would be before me, a crossroads reached and a choice to be made. Slightly slipping the clutch of the '77 BMW up the steep driveway at Banora Point in Northern NSW, I headed out, the morning sun bright against the blue sky. I had given myself about a month to go walkabout. I wanted to gaze out upon the slow-rolling waves of the Great Southern Ocean near Adelaide in South Australia. Winter was approaching and it could be cold riding down there at that time of the year. I do live my life with variety. I enjoy the distraction of reading two books at once. I can carry on multiple conversations and think I’m giving both my attention. I’ll eat Indian curry one night, Mexican the next. I try not to leave too many loose ends so I had my cold-weather riding clothes packed away in the watertight panniers. Southbound on a cool but sunny Sunday morning on the relatively traffic-free Pacific Motorway the bike hummed along nicely, my iPod choosing a soothing array of music and keeping me company. I like the distraction inside my head. I was trying to clear away some built up cobwebs and music helps. Sometimes it was rock from Porcupine Tree pounding away, and other times more acoustic sounds from Paul Kelly, or smooth electronica from Zero Seven. The bike felt just right; not too heavily loaded, well-balanced and agile, and the riding gear I’d chosen kept me comfortable against the mid-morning chill. I’d ride to the Clarence River-side town of Grafton NSW that day and then head up into the low-lying coastal hills towards Glen Innes and the New England Highway. I had no firm plans to make a certain distance, just whatever felt right for the day. It’d been about five months since my last longish ride and the posterior muscles had to be reacquainted with the firm saddle. The winding route up the Gwydir Highway was just what I needed after the Pacific Highway’s many roadwork sites and large truck traffic. The Gwydir had recently received some fresh tarmac and I was eager to explore the newly-mounted Pirelli Sport Demon tyres’ limits. I was not disappointed. I rate the section going up and through Washpool National Park near Nymboida as one of my favourite roads to ride in Northern New South Wales! The more spindly lowland hardwood bush land gives way to dense, almost tropical ferns, towering old growth eucalypts and offers sweeping vistas of blue-hued mountain ranges with every tight turn. The road surface was damp in places as this late in the year the sun can’t penetrate deeply enough into the temperate rainforest to dry the bitumen surface. I overtook a few slow-moving cars and trucks and followed several faster-moving motorbikes up and up until we levelled off on the rolling high plains of the New England Plateau. Arriving at The New England Highway in Glen Innes I fuelled up on what would be the last of proper 98 octane premium petrol in a while. I ate some lunch and enjoyed a hot cuppa tea in a local café. Turning South amidst the blazing leaves of Autumn I immediately felt the cooler air. I stopped and donned another poly layer, all the better to ward of the evil chill encroaching on my psyche. The towns of Armidale and Tamworth lie at a higher altitude relative to the coast and I really felt a distinct change in the weather. Grey rain clouds appeared to threaten but in the end didn’t drop anything on me. That night I made Gunnedah and a wonderful camping site that I’ve stopped at every time I’ve ridden this route. The non-heated pool got a miss but the quick hot shower (we are in a 1,000 year drought) melted away the day’s muscle aches. I ate some dinner from an average Chinese takeaway ‘palace’. It was quite mediocre Chinese food in a large country town washed down by English ale and served up by Korean immigrants with heavy OZ accents and devoured by me, a hybrid Aussie-born/Amurcan! Sated and succoured I slowly walked back the half kilometre to the site through the grounds of an old stone Catholic church, its grounds dark with gravesites and history, and rested a while on the bench in the darkness, zipping my fleece vest up against my neck to ward of the encroaching night. The Cockatoos carried on just before dusk, gathering as they do in their many hundreds, right above me in the gum trees surrounding the camping ground on the edge of this picturesque but sleepy town. I’d covered about 700 kms. Coming soon, Day Two:
Sleep To Dream
{ 17:51, Friday 10 April 2009 }
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The old squared-stone warehouse stood in what seemed to me a seedier part of old Portland. The rain-slick streets were empty of traffic and pedestrians. It was late. Faint light from yellowed street lamps filtered down through the lightly falling rain. I shivered, turned up my collar and walked away from the warehouse toward the alley way, drawn inexorably down in to its depths as into a short, dark, narrow tunnel, the light at the end pulling me on. The light overhead remained harsh and bright, too bright for late night decisions, as though an interrogation was expected. I could hear the soft rain falling on the corrugated metal roof overhead, a suggestion like that of water torture. The long slender shadow of a cat passed quickly by the window. I was then outside the warehouse standing in the falling rain. I felt no chill in my bones as the cold, wet and darkness of the blackest night of my life overcame me.
The First Ride
{ 11:37, Tuesday 31 March 2009 }
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This arvo I took the bike out for its first ride after tightening a few things and making adjustments to this and that. The partial K1200S fairing is now fully installed and viable. I went South in the direction of Murwillumbah along the slow flow of the Tweed River's sugar cane fields towards the basalt tower of Mt Warning, which perhaps you can can see in the background in a few of the photos. The late-afternoon air was sunny and warm, near 28, and a bit humid after the recent heavy rains - over 100mm in two days! - which has finally stopped. The sky was a brilliant blaze of greys, orange and red amongst the broken clouds and no wind blew in gusts as it has the past few days. It was ideal for a combo of motorway and fast two-lane riding.At first it felt odd to again be sitting comfortably behind a fairing, the sleek flanks blocking most of the windblast but the front wheel and mudguard clearly visible downward from the rider's perspective through the fairing's side panels. I couldn't hear any more or any less mechanical noise emanating from the now somewhat enclosed engine. The fairing panels direct the airflow straight at the cylinder bases and the exhaust port, the place where the engine heat is greatest. The centrally-mounted oil cooler will do its job. The ergonomics felt natural, the 'bars, which are the Vortex clip-ons I've been using, fall straight to hand, the seat, footpeg relationship unchanged from the 'naked' this bike has been. It could be very comfortable over the road. And it is!
After three or four kilometres of local riding through the neighbourhood in heavy drivetime traffic I rolled up Sexton Hill and merged onto the motorway. Crossing the Tweed River I accelerated to an extra-legal 125 kph and noticed how easy it was to reach that speed without having to 'hunker down' a bit to ease the direct windblast I've been accustomed to. Sweet noises came back at me, my helmet seemed quieter and was buffeted less. Five or six k's down the highway I quickly exited toward "Mur'bah" and followed along the Tweed's swollen banks, the cane fields on both sides of the road green and lush with new growth. Traffic eased considerably so I gave it some cane of my own and hit redline in the top coupla gears.
At the Tumbulgum Road I stopped in a layby for some setting sun photo opps. After snapping a few shots the idea of a 'pot' of Toohey's Old or Carlton Black slid wet and cold down the back of my mind. I wiped my forehead with my bandanna and threw a leg over for the easy stroll on a slow, two lane road past the old bridge down to one of my favourite pubs. I've spent a heap of time in the garage lately and needed a diversion, the Spanish word for 'fun'. Just one. Muy bien.
The ride home along the backroads - aren't they nearly all back roads Down Under? - had me smiling even more. The bike thrummed along well. I'd thought that there'd be a bit of resonation from the excess of plastic panels, but the mounting points with rubber grommets I've fabricated seem to have taken care of that. The car ahead made every effort to not slow me down and so a road that I usually ride at 80 kph along had me scraping metal bits down on occasion and reaching 100 kph. The jostly feel of the former K-bike front suspension now works much more smoothly with the added weight of the fairing and headlight. The heavier and more stable front end and rear Progressive suspension components feels more 'balanced'. I've made no adjustments there yet.
I'm home now, back in the garage, the BBQ warming up on the back porch overlooking the mighty Pacific, the sun setting behind brilliant orange cloud cover over the Border Range. It will be a good day tomorrow. Tiny mozzies light on my exposed ankles. A few draw blood before I can whack them away. I'm not too worried about Dengue Fever, though it has reached far enough South along the East coast now to be an issue.
I'm in for the night. A 750ml bottle of very cold Tasman Bitter - I left it in the freezer before I rode away - goes down well as a mix of music plays on my laptop. Two more await the twist and release. In 'Strine' it's known as 'ripping the scab of a coupla cold little vicious ones'. The bike sits behind me. It seems to be waiting, ready to go. I sense movement in its silence. A ghecko crawls along the ceiling looking for his prey, moths and other insects, maybe too those mozzies that bother me. I've got the maps out. I'm drawn to the twisting coloured lines of the open road. I've the ideal companion, basic, simple and elegant, a '70s-era mechanical creature strangely morphed into the 21st Century.
The Hand Of God.
{ 18:07, Thursday 19 March 2009 }
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Have you ever done something clever, brave, exhilarating or death-defying, or even just plain stupid, and there was no one there to take a photograph of your exploits? A riskily chosen investment? A swiftly pedalled bicycle ride downhill on skinny, high pressure tyres with nothing but tiny friction brakes against a wheel rim and fabric between your skin and spilt blood. Perhaps even a simple rush hour drive on New York City's Cross Bronx Expressway might get wind up your skirt! Give me the hand of God any day! T.E. Lawrence Quote
{ 17:22, Thursday 19 March 2009 }
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"To explain the lure of speed you would have to explain human nature; but it is easier understood than explained. All men in all ages have beggared themselves for fast horses or camels or ships or cars or bikes or aeroplanes: all men have strained themselves dry to run or walk or swim faster. Speed is the second oldest animal craving in our nature, and our generation is fortunate in being able to indulge it more cheaply and generally than our ancestors. Every natural man cultivates the speed that appeals to him. I have a motor-bike income." ~T.E. Lawrence (of Arabia) What Else Can a Biker Do?
{ 08:12, Saturday 28 February 2009 }
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I started to like bikes a long time ago in the dark ages of the two wheel-addled mind of my youth. I'd jump kerbs on my home-built bicycle, pretending I was Steve McQueen leaping off the edge of a high dune, or Malcolm Smith easily winning the ISDT as in the 1971 cult classic Bruce Brown film, On Any Sunday. I read the monthly moto-mags in the back of the library ‘til they were dog-eared. Most of my mates preferred the black and white Swedish porno-mags of the day. I worked out that I could multi-task. The first I could call my own was a late ’60s Briggs & Stratton-powered 2-1/2 horsepower mini-bike that didn’t run, which had sat outdoors in my neighbourhood, untouched and unloved for some time. I was forbidden to buy it with a stern lecture from my overbearing father. I had a paper route and sold vegies by the roadside, so I’d saved a fair bit of money for a 14 year old lad. None of my mates, with the limited mechanical skills of a teenager, was gunna buy it. As a farm boy we had a dark barn where things could be ’kept’ a while unnoticed. It held secrets well, so I reckoned I could dare defy the master and bought the wreck for the then princely sum of $30.00, while he was away working. I cautiously filed the bumps down on the old ignition points and set the timing. A local machinist’s skill with a lathe had me a new centrifugal clutch bushing for an additional $5.00. After a few tugs at the rope starter cord I had the decrepit thing chuffing along at a smooth idle. I bounced off muddy berms and dashed through the pine forests near my house with reckless abandon. I ripped up the grassy meadows of the lower 40 and tore through the sand pit at the end of the property. It revved to the moon! The suspension was shit: low pressure air in the tyres. It had no real brakes. But my fate had been sealed. I was in denial. My dad came home early on a Thursday arvo instead of a Friday. From the relative safety of 300 metres I saw him turn into the gravel driveway, exiting the old Ford slowly, his head turned in my direction. He stood straight, crossed his arms and gave me the thousand yard stare. I was doomed. He walked slowly towards me through the vegetable garden, checking carefully to see if I’d done the required watering and weeding whilst he was away. “I see you’ve done what I told you not to do,’ he said. I knew well what he meant and trembled in my boots. In the fabled olden days no one went against their parents’ wishes. It was not done. I expected the worst. Eagerly and with perhaps a bit more enthusiasm and chatter than was required, I told him of my luck at making the bomb run and how I’d worked out what no one in the neighbourhood who wanted the mini-bike had thought of. He had doubted my skill and persistence. He asked if he could ride it. I rolled it towards him nervously, showing him when to yank on the pull start cord and how to twist the throttle just so. Off he went. I did not sit in that seat for another half an hour. Darkness fell. Mum yelled out the back door that dinner was ready. All was right in my little world. I had approval. A month later dad bought a Honda trailie and I picked up and stripped-down a Yamaha step-through, 3-speed, 2 stroke scooter. I unbolted the valanced mudguards and spooned some proper nobbies onto the skinny rims. We rode all that Summer and on into the next, and the next. That was 34 years ago. Sadly, dad’s gone now. I can still see him smiling, dusty and tanned in his ancient silver metal flake Bell helmet. He’d ride cross country just because he knew a joint where he could have a good feed and a coldie, throwing his tattered swag out under a tree next to a water hole along the way. I recently restored his old Beemer in honour of our riding time together and ride every day in celebration. It keeps my own wheels turning. What else can a biker do? The Outline of a Life.
{ 09:21, Wednesday 3 December 2008 }
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The other day I was playing round with the computer and decided to download Google Earth. I did the usual thing with it that most everyone does. I took a look at the house I was living in Washington State for the Summer in the Northern hemisphere. I scanned my elder brother's acreage in Queensland. I dropped in on my former workplace. I took a look at some of my favourite places from on high. Then I brought up the farm that I lived in from the mid to late '70s. I can clearly see the outline of my life there. The lines of the gardens and orchard are still visible, though obviously in need of reinvigoration after nearly 20 years of disuse and abuse by the current dwellers of that hallowed ground. I pulled weeds in lengthy rows, mulching and planting alongside my brothers as a kid, the sun often at our backs and us on our knees. The sound of my father's voice as he drove the spade into the well-tilled earth, near constantly drumming a lesson into us that would became a background drone. I hated him behind his back. He moved so quickly and anticipated that you could read his mind and pass the appropriate tool as we mixed cement or split hardwood with the maul. He knew how to build a stone chimney that would last a lifetime or to plant and grow sweet, nine pound beetroot or long, slender asparagus. But he could not properly gap a spark plug or set points in a 2-1/2 horsepower Briggs & Stratton four stroke. That was left to me. We often dreaded a silence or break in his words, as it could mean attention was being paid to a misstep we'd made and brutal with swiftness a clap on the head would be laid down against us. There was always something to be said, something emanating from his mouth. A tirade, a torrent of words, often sarcastic, usually witty, though rarely kind. We heard the words and filtered what we needed to, me and my three brothers, me being the second eldest. It was something to endure. Inwardly I laughed at my cleverness in thinking that I always knew when he was talking shit because his mouth was moving. Cord wood was stacked neatly and drying in rows under the sun on the hillside behind the vast gardens. We always grew a hothouse full of new green life well before most. A fire blazed in the cellar furnace come the Winter cold because of our efforts in thinning the dense woods. A market stall full of leafy green, yellow and orange Summertime goodness at the roadside was often there for sale. The money from the sale of fresh veggies I pocketed and saved towards a new bicycle or eventually my first motorbike. Pumpkins bigger than a beach ball lay scattered across an acre of Autumn garden. Corn stalks stood upright and drying after the harvest. A stone wall and praying mantis eggs, loads of earth worms and companion planting keeping insect plagues at bay and helped airate the soil. No man-made chemicals were ever used. Compost and manure fertilised the well-tilled and rich brown soil to amazing heights of production. We kept barrels of rainwater at each downspout with a few shovels full of year-old chicken manure down the bottom with which to water the plants. "Chicken tea" we called it. It stunk and was as rich as life. A long-time friend of the family and especially of my younger brother, used to jokingly mock the tone of my father's voice with the sternly delivered phrase, "Jodi, weed the fields". It was simultaneously an admonishment and a firm order. It was how things were to be done in that household. "Mach schnell" and "roust" became the phrases used to get us to move along. "Hands, sit" meant to wash up and plant your bum at the table at mealtime. "Area 51" was what 51 Heald Street in Pepperell was known as. My big brother Shane learnt to nick off early in the workday, even resorting to tending his own garden so he could distract and bolt when he'd done his share. Quite successfully did he tend it too, much to dad's odium, but likely with a small measure of pride in him as well, he having taught us all how to nurture a seed from sprout to lively and productive produce. He was not averse to pride in us in small doses, though he rarely showed emotion. Dad's laughter often was mocking and with a whiff of schadenfreude, rather than joyful. I had my chance for relative escape, and took it too. The old barn, which we had dug the foundation out from under and shored up the pilings over one long Summer, was my refuge from the heat and the monotonous toil. There were tools in there and engines too. I carefully sharpened the blades on the lawnmower, changed the oil on the tractor, charged and maintained batteries and oiled up the rusting and aged spanners and wrenches our grandfather had given us in his will. I nailed pegboard to the walls and created a space, a workshop of sorts, attempting to organise the disarray and mess into some sort of useful working space. I had a vice, a hacksaw, an electric drill, and a small collection of metric hand tools. I learnt tidiness there. I dislike clutter to this day. Clutter and scatter about distracts me to no end. My two younger brothers were left to water and weed and hear the latest political rant or social commentary, and suffer the occasional blow to the back of the head for not paying attention or being careless with young tender plants. Our backs were tanned, our heads bowed. We supplicated ourselves for daily survival, for fresh food from the garden, a warm place to sleep, stability in the instability, and made plans for our respective escapes. We were privileged. Others did not have it so good, we were told. But we did not believe. This was not our version of the promised Utopia. I was in the garage and Shane was off down the road, his long hair untied and bobbing into the 1970s distance. I can see him go now still. Our version of freedom in that somewhat restrictive household was escape. Mum slowly aged as she uncomplainingly boiled mason jars in the kitchen over a blazing woodstove, in Summer heat and Autumn cold, jarring the garden's goodness. It got us through the cold Winters, and all of it fortified us for a lifetime, unbeknownst and foggy then to our teenage pot-addled minds as it is clear today. It seems so long ago. I reflect on it and am thankful for my upbringing, for being exposed to different ideas early on, of knowing right from wrong and of sussing out the good and the bad. Some anger lingers in me still. I worked and toiled as all people do at all stages of their lives. But to hear the uninspiring philosophy drilled into my young and inexperienced head that "life is a short, intense struggle" was too much to bear at age seventeen. And so at eighteen I was gone, never to return to the farm or my parents care again. My brothers all did the same in their time and in their own way. "Wisdom is not the prerogative of youth" was a buzz phrase I heard repeatedly as a boy, and I understood it well. It certainly was a good impetus to get the hell away and make a life for one's self. I, as everyone does, had to make those universally repeated human mistakes for myself. Here I sit, nearly five years down the road from my father's early death, reflecting on his life and his impact on me. A voracious disease took him, fast and furious and with no mercy. He stomached it to the end. He, the man of steel, of daily ritual of work and discipline, a student of reading and of writing, of sweat and "hard yakker". The Olympian, the marathon runner, the classical piano player, the amazing persona of Dean Allan Thackwray is gone these five long years. In body but not in spirit. We all thought he had another ten in him. We watched him go, firm with belief in his afterlife and firm with resolve to the end. Rest in peace, you lived your life in turmoil masked by tasks and a tad too much grog than was good for you. I am left to wander. Or better yet, I'll clarify that I choose to wander. The peripatetic son, I was called. I used only those lessons given by him that were necessary to paddle my way through the white-water rapids of life's rocky obstacles. The rest I've made up along the way, eschewing a whole heap of others that either made no plain sense to me or that I was intellectually incapable of grasping. Some I left out simply because I did not agree with the philosophy behind them. Life with others is not meant be an argument. Just gentle and respectful disagreements. I'm doing alright. I know what I'm capable of. I have an interest in things of the mind and in the health of the body. I'm not afraid of anything except failure to live my life my way. That I am doing wholeheartedly. Is this a confession? Not really. I have no idea who really reads this, or who cares. No matter. It's my place to express myself and so I do. I'm grateful for my health, thankful for the hard work, appreciative of the lessons drilled into me and for those personal realisations that came to me outside of the master's intended teachings. Sifting through it all I have come to some of my own conclusions, as he likely intended me to. I am awake and aware each and every day to new experiences and honestly become more open and "liberal" to new ideas, not closed off and "decided" about my perceptions of the world and of others' opinions. I keep my eyes wide open and my head down. I'm fierce in my resolve and wide-eyed to possibility and change. Nothing Polly Anna about it. |
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LinksCategoriesRecent EntriesThe Lions RoadCentral OZ Autumn Moto-Walkabout Sleep To Dream The First Ride The Hand Of God. T.E. Lawrence Quote What Else Can a Biker Do? The Outline of a Life. Friends |
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