27/7/2008 - Guide for Selecting A New Cat

• Climate: cats with thick, long, woolly hair are not suited to warmer climates unless they are kept indoors with air conditioning. Likewise, cats with short thin coats (or no hair at all!) should not be kept outside in colder areas.
• Grooming: some long haired cats (most notably the Persian) are going to need extensive grooming for the duration of their lives. This might mean simply having the time to brush your cat daily to prevent matting of their coat, or paying a professional groomer to keep their coat short and manageable. Cats are also notoriously difficult to bath.
• Children: I would not recommend getting a new cat if you have very young children, unless the cat had been behaviourally tested. Cats are much more sensitive about their personal space than dogs, and young children need to be taught proper behaviour around pets. That being said, there's nothing to stop you from starting a family if you already own a cat, as the cat will be much better able to adapt to young children's behaviour over time.
• Lifestyle: while I have already stated that cats are much better at keeping themselves entertained than dogs, you will need to spend some time playing and looking after them.
  
• Other pets: cats especially have trouble dealing with new arrivals to their 'territory', especially those that suffer from feline lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD), and adding an additional cat to the household may exacerbate this. Older cats that have been alone for some time are also pretty inflexible with accepting new pets into their 'territory'
• Money: owning a cat can be really expensive, especially if an extended veterinary stay is needed. They need money spent on all the things that dogs do: vet checks, vaccinations, micropchipping, council registration (in some areas), food, worming and flea products, as well as toys.

• Oriental: There is both a long and short haired version of the Oriental, and is somewhat like the Siamese cat in looks and temperament, but in sold coat colours. 
• Siamese: have a long, svelte body, long slim legs, and a long head with slanting eyes and a fine muzzle. They are also quite social and vocal at times. The colours are 'points', where the body is a light colour with the ears, mask (face), feet and tail in a darker shade.
• Abyssinian: possess a gene that causes each hair of the coat to have several dark bands on a lighter background, resulting in a 'ticked' coat pattern. Very playful and athletic cats; they tend to become quite attached to their owner and will demand much of their attention. They remind me of the cats you in ancient Egyptian paintings.
• British Shorthair: are quite well built, stout looking cats, with a 'cobby' body and a round head with big round eyes. The most famous (and original) colours of this breed is blue, with copper eyes. They tend to  be quite sedate, quiet, and gentle cats, but are also proficient hunters.
• Scottish Fold: has distinctive folded ears, a short neck, and rounded body. The breed has a placid personality, and is quite self-contained and reclusive.
• Russian Blue: this cat has a thick, lustrous coat and emerald-green eyes. They can be quite cautious and sensitive to changes to their environment.
  
• Turkish Van: a very independent breed, with a distinct coat pattern known as Van - even when it is displayed in other breeds. This cat is also unique in that it has a reputation for enjoying a swim in hot weather..
• Rex: the Rex breeds have a distinct coat, which lacks guards hairs, making it very soft to the touch. Due to this, the coat is often very short and does not shed as much as a normal coat would, making these ideal cats for people with allergies to cat hair. There are three main types of Rex that differ in both coat length body: the short haired Cornish and Devon Rex's, and the long haired Selkirk Rex.
• Persian: I'm sure most people would recognise the Persian breed, with its distinctive flat face. Unfortunately these cats are quite prone to some conditions due to this, such as issues with their eyes, teeth and nasal passages. This breed is very quiet and probably one of the least active.
• Ragdoll: this is one breed of cat that has been actively bred for its temperament, initially being bred for the ability to go limp like a ragdoll when they are picked up. They are a long haired cat, and come in a slow developing (over two years or so) point pattern. They also come in Bi-colours, and mitted patterns.
• Domestic Short/Long Hair: ah the good old moggie, or mixed breed cat. Can come in any colour, with any pattern, and may possess any temperament.

27/7/2008 - Guide for Selecting A New Dog - Part 2

Ok, so you've sorted out what breed of dog would suit you best, now all you need to do is go get it. You have several options to choose from: breeders, pet store, or animal shelter, as well as from so called 'backyard breeders' and puppy farms.

• Breeders

Your typical dog breeder is someone who not only produces dogs, but they also show their dogs in competition, and/or participates in obedience or agility trials. They are also usually members of the Canine Council (or its counterpart) of their state or territory, and are committed to improving their chosen breed. Most select their breeding dogs based on those that show desirable traits and have succeeded well in shows, and try not to breed from dogs that show overt signs of hereditary diseases such as hip dysplasia. They often keep extensive records of the their dogs breeding lines, so as prevent genetic defects in the next generation. Many dog breeders also try not to overbreed from their bitches, only allowing them to have a litter once every couple of years.

Why should you buy from a breeder?

Most dogs that come from breeders have been vet checked, have had vaccinations/worming/flea control/microchipping, and may or may not be desexed, depending on whether the dog is being obtained for showing purposes or as a companion animal. Many dog breeders are also well educated on good dog nutrition and care, and may be able to provide you with information on these topics. Some breeders also offer a guarantee on their dogs – if you dog does show signs and symptoms of a hereditary disease later on in life, they may either replace the dog or refund you the money spent on the purchase of it. The price of dogs bought from breeders can be quite high – but keep in mind that responsible breeders often do not make any profit in the long term form the sale of their dogs, and regularly put in a lot of hard work to keep their kennels going. To find breeders in your area you can contact your state Canine Council (or its counterpart), search online, or ask your local veterinary clinic. You can also attend local dog shows and find breeders that may have time in between shows to talk to you.

• Pet Stores

While I have nothing against pet stores, I personally do not believe in purchasing animals from them. In my experience people who work in pet stores have had little to no formal training on the care of small animals, and tend to give incorrect advice on new dog (and kitten) care. That being said, however, there are many pet stores out there that are responsible and educated, and sell dogs that have at least been vet checked and had their first series of vaccinations, and depending what state you are in they may also be microchipped. Keep in mind that pet stores, like any other small business, are trying to make a profit, and may try to sell you a dog that may not be necessarily suited to you and your family. They also tend to source their puppies from ‘backyard breeders’, and there is almost no way of knowing what type of hereditary conditions they may be predisposed to.

• Animal Shelter

If you’re not picky about what type of breed of dog you want, then your local animal shelter is the way to go. Not only do all dogs from animal shelters come with at least their first set of vaccinations, they are also desexed, vet checked, wormed, microchipped, had flea control, and are behaviourally tested before being able to be put up for adoption. All this for a very reasonable price.  The two most common types of animal shelters in Australia belong to the RSPCA and your local council, with some areas having some smaller organisations present. The behavioural testing they do on their adult dogs is very extensive and undertaken by professional animal behaviouralists, and they are usually able to tell you if they will be suited to small children and other animals you may already own.  On top of this, you're saving an unwanted animal from an uncertain future.

• 'Backyard Breeders’

This is a term that’s applied to most amateur breeders that usually do not belong to their state Canine Council, or show their dogs in competition. The dogs they produce are usually not desexed, vaccinated, or microchipped, and may not have vet checked. They are usually uneducated on basic breeding responsibilities, such as overbreeding bitches and genetics.  Buying from backyard breeders is generally not recommended, as they tend to contribute to the amount of unwanted dogs that have to euthanased.

• ‘Puppy Farms’

The term ‘puppy farm’ usually (but not always) refers to newer breeders that have cropped up in recent years to cater to the relatively new designer dog breeds. They are somewhat similar to 'backyard breeders', but on a much larger scale. Designer dog breeds are also sometimes referred to as ‘-oodles’. Some examples include: Labradoodle: Labrador cross poodle; Spoodle: Cocker Spaniel cross Poodle; and Schnoodle: Schnauzer cross Poodle. These dogs are often overbred indiscriminately from a few dogs by people with no regard for minimising hereditary diseases and other genetic defects. These dogs may also have not have been vet checked, vaccinated, microchipped, or wormed before sale.

A Final Note 

When selecting a puppy from a litter, there are usually three behavioural types you can easily observe: the bold, hyperactive puppy, the quiet sad little puppy, and the normal, happy puppies that comprise the rest of the litter. Usually, people are inclined towards selecting either the first two mentioned: they either like the bolder puppy's spunk, or feel sorry for the sad puppy. Unfortunately these puppies are generally predisposed towards having behavioural problems later on in life. The best bet is to choose one of the normal happy puppies.

Remember that dogs live for approximately 10 years, so choose wisely. Research in books and on the internet, talk to your local veterinary clinic staff, and visit dog shows and get information from breeders before making your decision.

23/7/2008 - Guide for Selecting A New Dog

There are quite a few things that need to be considered before getting a new dog - whether it is a puppy or an older dog. With so many different types of dog out there, and so many places that sell dogs, it can be confusing trying to find the right type of dog to suit you and your family.

There are several initial points to consider:

• Size: what size dog will suit your lifestyle? Do you have a small yard, or live in an apartment? Then a larger dog is probably not suitable for you, unless you are willing to spend time walking your dog everyday.
• Climate:  what is the weather like where you live? If its hot and sunny, then chances are a dog with a thick, wooly coat is not going to do well unless you let it inside with an air conditioner on 24/7. Likewise, dogs with very thin coats are not suitable as outdoor pets in cold climates. Some breeds do not take well to being outdoor pets regardless of the climate, and this should be considered as well.
• Grooming:  how much time and/or money are you willing to spend on grooming your dog? If you can't see yourself being able to brush your long-haired pet everyday, and/or pay for it to have its hair cut regularly, then maybe you should think about a short haired dog. 
• Children: are you a young family with small children? There are several breeds of dog that are not suited to children; especially those that are very young and have not learned how to behave around dogs. 
• Lifestyle: do you have time to spend with your new companion, training and exercising them? If not, then perhaps you should not get a dog at this time. Dog’s need quite a bit of attention and time spent on them; otherwise problem behaviour and lifestyle diseases can occur.
• Other pets:  do you already own other pets, be it another dog or otherwise? Some breeds of dog do not particularly get along with other dogs, and there may be teething problems settlings a new younger dog in with an older established pet.
• Money: owning a dog can be very expensive! It will require vet checks, vaccinations, food, flea and worming products, toys and microchipping, as well as council registration for its entire life. It may also require additional money spent on things like grooming if it’s a long-haired breed, and most likely some form of obedience training. There is also a good chance it will require veterinary care at some point in its life, which can be expensive.

Once you have considered these options, then you can start looking at what sort of breed of dog might be suited to you. A lot of the time people just decide on a type of dog without really researching into the breed’s characteristics and needs, and then find themselves with a dog that is not suitable later on down the track. The best advice I can give you on this matter is to do your research! There are plenty of books and material available online on various dog breeds, their needs, and what sort of care they will need. Other good sources of information include dog breeders, and your local veterinary clinic should be more than willing to discuss possible options for you (all though some clinics will require you to make an appointment for this). 

Traditionally, dog breeds are divided into several different categories and sub-categories. This is a brief and generalized overview of dog breeds, with some common examples of breeds of each category. Please note that there are many variations on this depending on what material you look at.

• Toy Dogs: most dogs of this breed were originally bred to do some form of work. Today they are mostly companion animals. Breeds include: Australian Silky Terrier, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Chihuahua, Maltese, Pug, Tibetan Spaniel.
• Terriers: there are two sub-types of terrier:
  • Bull Breeds: bred originally as fighting dogs – either against other dogs or other mammals. Breeds include: Bull terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier.
  • Other: generally includes the smaller, more wiry breeds. Originally bred for their digging abilities, as well as their ability to chase small mammals such as foxes, rodents, and snakes. Breeds include: Fox Terrier, Jack Russell, West Highland White Terriers, and Yorkshire Terriers.
• Gun Dogs: originally bred as a group to be companion dogs for hunters, and for having an affinity for water: floppy ears to keep water out, and tight waterproof coats. They are split into three main types:
  • Setters/Pointers: bred to search for game silently, and then either ‘point’ or crouch down (‘set’) near prey rather than capture it. Breeds include German Shorthaired Pointer, English Setter, and Irish Setter.
  • Retrievers: as the name indicates, retrievers were bred to retrieve prey that had been killed by hunters. Includes: Labrador and Golden Retriever.
  • Spaniels: bred initially to flush game, as well as retrieve. Breeds include Cocker Spaniel and English Springer Spaniel.
• Hounds: also originally used as game-hunting dogs, divided into two categories:
  • Sight:  bred for speed, and to hunt by using their sight to detect movement. They are typically long, lean and lithe in build. Breeds include: Greyhounds, Whippets, and Afghan Hounds
  • Scent: bred for their extraordinary sense of smell and stamina to track, chase, and wear down game. Breeds include Bloodhound, Beagle, and Dachshund.
• Working Dogs: dogs bred for their ability to herd and/or protect stock, mainly sheep and cattle in Australia. They are popular as pets due to their trainability, but require lots of attention and training. Breeds include Border Collie, Australian Cattle Dog, Maremma, Welsh Corgi, and Shetland Sheepdogs.
• Utility: bred mainly to perform work other than stock work. Breeds include: Alaskan Malamute, Siberian Husky, Boxer, Schnauzer, and Rottweiler.
• Non-sporting: this category refers to breeds not included in any other group, but were bred for a specific function originally. Breeds include: British Bulldog, Dalmatian, Great Dane, Poodle, Shih Tzu, Keeshond and Shar Pei.
  

From these groups also come the cross breed dogs, whose attributes and needs will depend mainly on what types of dog breeds they were bred from. I would also like to point out that I have not included the new designer breed category in this description, as I have quite a strong opinion on the breeding of these dogs. Information for these breeds came from TAFE course material and Dr. Bruce Fogles RSPCA Dogalog.

Part two of this guide will look at different places to purchase your new dog from.

21/7/2008 - First Post - Welcome